How to Grow Caladium

 It's a pity caladium are rarely thought of as houseplants. These plants are almost unparalleled for their foliage. They have large, arrow-shaped and paper-thin leaves that come in a striking array of colors and patterns. A mass of caladium is an explosion of whites, greens, reds and pinks ... mottled, veined and striped. But these plants have a few drawbacks. They are tuberous plants that only grow foliage from spring to autumn, they require very high humidity, and they have absolutely no cold tolerance. Nevertheless, as far as unusual indoor plants go, these are sure to raise a few admiring eyebrows.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Indirect light or moderate shade indoors. The narrower the leaves, the greater the sun it can withstand.
Water: When leaves appear, keep evenly moist. Never allow to dry out and keep humidity as high as practical.
Temperature: The warmer the better. Aim for 70º if possible—tubers begin to grow around 70ºF.
Soil: Rich, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize weekly during the growing season with liquid or use slow-release pellets.

Propagation:

Mature tubers can be divided; make sure that each new tuber section has at least one growing site.

Repotting:

Indoors or out, caladium are a seasonal plant, with foliage in the summer and a rest period in the autumn or winter. Their rest period isn't determined by temperature or light cycle, but by how long the plant has been growing. After the leaves begin to die back in the fall, either keep the tubers in the same pot (keeping it dry) or remove, clean and put into sawdust or sand to store. Store tubers above 55ºF to minimize loss of healthy tubers. Plant them out again when the next growing season begins.

Varieties:

There are literally too many cultivars to keep track of—caladium cultivars are green, red, pink, white, even orange. In many cases, cultivars are sold without names. Almost all cultivars are descended from the C. bicolor, which is native to South America. Some books list these plants as C. hortulanum. Personally, I buy caladiums for their foliage and don't worry too much about the cultivar.

Grower's Tips:

Caladiums are a seasonal plant even in the tropics, where gardeners plant them in the spring and summer months when they'll thrive in the heat and wet. In the home situation, they'll do best with lots of heat, bright but indirect light, and lots of humidity. But even under the best conditions, caladiums will only last a few months before their leaves start to die back and the plant goes dormant again. This is OK—they're supposed to do that. Use masses of them as striking summer accents and conversation pieces. When they die back, save the tubers in a bag and replant next year for another show.

basic flower flowerig plants flowering plants plant plant care

Introduction to Growing Begonias

 Begonias are among the most popular of cultivated plants, indoors or outdoors. These lovely plants are grown for both their leaf forms and their blooms, depending on the type of begonia. In some areas of the world, the wax begonia is easily the most popular bedding plant, while serious plant collectors still go to great lengths to hunt down beautiful foliage begonias.

An Introduction to Begonias

According to the American Begonia Society, the Begonia genus of plants includes about 1,500 named species and several thousand hybrids. From a cultivation point of view, begonias have all the ingredients for successful hybridization-they cross readily, they have striking variability in the genus, and their ranks include everything from durable landscape plants to delicate specimens.

Botanically speaking, begonias are terrestrial understory herbs native to tropical regions around the world, including Central and South America, Asia, and Africa. Today, most begonias in cultivation are hybrids, so they cannot be grown from seeds. Fortunately, however, they readily reproduce from leaf cuttings or rhizome division, so it's easy to rapidly increase your begonia collection.

Because of the wide variety of begonia types, enthusiasts divide the genus into different types to help keep them straight. Brad Thompson, a begonia expert, offers the following divisions for begonias:

• Cane type. These grow from straight, sometimes brittle stems, and are prized for both their blooms and their foliage. The very popular and beautiful angel wing and dragon wing begonias are cane type begonias. These hybrids generally feature clusters of pendant flowers that appear throughout the year.
• Shrub type. Shrub begonias grow in mounding piles from multiple stems. They range in size from small to huge plants that would dwarf a full-grown man. These are not as common as cane type begonias.
• Rhizomatous. Rhizomatous begonias grow from thick underground rhizomes. These types of begonias are popular for their beautiful leaf shapes and colors, with leaves that can attain massive size under the right conditions. These are very popular plants and include some of the most commonly cultivated indoor begonias.
• Semperflorens. These are the common wax begonias, so called because of the waxy appearance of their leaves. In temperate areas, these are grown as annuals, but they are perennial shrubs in warmer areas. Wax begonias have been bred with pink, white and red flowers, either in single or double blooms. Although they are most commonly grown outdoors, they can be grown indoors.
• Tuberous. Tuberous begonias are primarily grown for their flowers, which are often show-worth. They have a short dormant period in the fall and winter. In terms of plant structure, tuberous begonias include trailing types and upright plants.
• Trailing. Trailing begonias are great for hanging baskets. They feature pendant growth with beautiful displays of flowers, sometimes year-round. Most pendant begonias have bright-green leaves.
• Rex. Rex begonias are actually a type of rhizomatous begonias, but they deserve special mention for their showy and beautiful leaves. Rex begonias offer a truly bewildering array of leaf shapes and colors, including greens, red, purple, silver, white, and many others. These types of begonias have insignificant flowers, but the leaves more than make up for their lack of interesting blooms.

Knowing the type of begonia growing is essential for success. In general, however, a few broad rules can be drawn about begonias: they cannot tolerate freezing temperatures, they prefer regular and even moisture but dislike being wet, and many of them do not thrive in strong sunlight. But even these are only the broadest of rules. The rest of this series of articles will delve more deeply into the world of begonias and hopefully offer some tips and hints on how to identify and keep your begonias thriving.

basic flower flowerig plants flowering plants plant care

How to Grow Aloe Plants

Native to Africa and the surrounding regions, there are about 400 species in the Aloe genus. Of these, about five are commonly found in cultivation. The most famous is Aloe vera, which has been used medicinally for centuries. All Aloe plants are succulents, forming low rosettes of lance-shaped fleshy leaves or, in the case of A. arborescens, growing into a taller, bare-stemmed plant topped with 10-inch leaves. Many kinds of Aloe have relatively harmless spines on their leaves, but it's still worth being careful. Besides A. vera, attractive varieties include A. aristata (Lace Aloe) and A. variegata (Tiger Aloe).

Growing Conditions:

Light: Strong, bright light. They can withstand full summer sun, once acclimated. In the winter, provide bright light.
Water: Water generously in the summer and nearly cease watering in the winter. Do not let water stand in the rosettes.
Temperature: Prefers warmer temperatures of 70ºF to 80ºF, but will survive down to 40ºF
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential; use a cacti or succulent mix.
Fertilizer: Feed with a cactus fertilizer in the summer only. Suspend feeding in the winter as the plant goes dormant.

Propagation:

During repotting of a larger plant, it is possible to carefully divide the root ball. Some kinds of aloe will send off off-sets that can be potted independently.

Repotting:

Aloe are not particularly fast-growing and will only rarely need repotting. Repot plants in the spring that are tipping over their pots or have ceased growing. Use a fast-draining potting mix with one-third sand or pebbles.

Grower's Tips:

Aloe is a very forgiving plant, and a well-grown aloe can be quite beautiful. The variegated Tiger Aloe forms bunches of low rosettes with green bands on wide leaves. As with all succulents, it's essential that aloe is never allowed to sit in stagnant water, and the plant should be carefully monitored to watch for signs of overwatering. Many people keep a pot of aloe vera in the house to use the juice from the fleshy leaves on burns and minor skin irritations. Aloe will almost never flower in cultivation.

basic flower flowering plants plant care

How to Grow Aglaonema Houseplants

 

The aglaonema is a highly decorative plant with several interesting varieties. There seems to be a little controversy in the books over whether this plant is easy or difficult to grow. The simple rule to follow is this: the lighter the variegation, the more light it needs. Otherwise, these are slow growing, dependably attractive and make excellent foliage plants. They have large, narrow oval leaves on short stems.

Growing Conditions:

Light: The darker green varieties can grow in near shade, while the variegated varieties require brighter light. Do not expose to direct sun.
Water: Water thoroughly in the summer, and mist often to raise humidity. During the winter, reduce watering but do not let the plant dry completely. Seek to raise humidity in general.
Temperature: They do not like cold drafts or temperatures below 65ºF. The warmer, the better.
Soil: A well-drained potting soil is perfect.
Fertilizer: Slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer during the growing season.

Propagation:

Aglaonema are not typically propagated by home growers, but they can be divided during repotting. Small shoots can be potted as individual plants.

Repotting:

They are slow growing and will only need repotting every other year. Aglaonema are generally low-growing plants that will only very gradually reveal their trunks.

Varieties:

Aglaonema have been hybridized to produce interesting variegated leaves. The A. commutatum in widely available, in both the Silver Spear (variegated) form and a green form. A pure green A. modestum is seen more rarely. Beware the fruit of the A. crispum, which are toxic. Other variegated forms include A. pictum, A. silver queen (almost totally silver), and A. pseudobracteatum.

Grower's Tips:

Because of their high humidity requirements, some growers consider aglaonema to be greenhouse plants. It's true they will do best in the warm, humid and bright environment of a greenhouse, but they can successfully be grown indoors by coming as close as possible to these conditions. The number one rule to remember with aglaonema is this: keep them warm and moist. If you do this, you'll be rewarded with a long-lasting, stable houseplant that will not soon outgrow its pot.

basic flowerig plants plant care

Agave grow Indoors

Agave can be exceptional houseplants, depending on which one you buy. There are about 450 species of agave, including the famous century plant (which, for the record, does flower more often than once a century). As desert plants, agave appreciate direct, abundant sunlight and light water. They are slow-growing, so even specimens that grow into large plants can be kept inside for a period of time before they outgrow the room. Agave are not very "people friendly;" their sap tends to be irritating and most of them feature truly intimidating spines on their leaves that make brushing against them a painful adventure.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright sunlight year-round. Consider moving your plants outside during the summer, where they can luxuriate in full sunlight, and make sure they get plenty of winter light.
Water: In spring, water with warm water just as the soil begins to dry out. Don't let the soil become completely dry. In the winter and fall, when growth is suspended, water very lightly.
Temperature: They prefer warm spring and summer temperatures (70-90ºF) and cooler fall and winter temps (50-60ºF).
Soil: Use standard succulent or cacti potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring and summer; do not feed during fall and winter.

Propagation:

Agave are difficult to grow from seed, and indoor plants will rarely flower anyway. Instead, use off-sets as the plant ages. In general, however, propagation of agave grown as houseplants can be difficult, since plants may not produce off-sets at all, and once potted up, off-sets frequently take a long time to begin growing. In most cases, it's better to simply buy a new plant or take your propagation efforts to the greenhouse or glasshouse. If you are potting up off-sets, use a cactus soil and keep them in a place with strong light. Lightly water and give them plenty of time to form strong roots before repotting.

Repotting:

In general, agave do not need to be repotted every year. Most of the species commonly found in cultivation grow very slowly and will take a long time to outgrow their pot. It's also best to handle your agave as little as possible, since they do not like to be disturbed. When you do repot, refresh the spent soil with new potting mix and make sure the plant is firmly anchored in its pot. However, be careful not to pot the agave too deep as that will encourage stem rot during the growing season. When repotting, use a fast-draining cacti or succulent mix. Do not use a mix that will become soggy or hold water.

Varieties:

There are dozens of species of agave found in cultivation, including many species that grow into giants. Some of the more popular species include:

• A. americana. Sometimes called the century plant, it has beautiful bluish leaves with prominent, saw-tooth spines. A variegated variety, A. americana 'Marginata' is available. These grow very large.
• A. victoriae-reginae. This small agave has upright leaves tipped with black spines that only measure about ten inches in height. This is a good indoor plant, but not as beautiful as the A. Americana.
• A filifera. This rare plant has filaments extending from its leaf tips.

Grower's Tips:

Agave is not a difficult plant to grow. They're slow-growing and dramatic and will even thrive on a bit of neglect. If you're the type of person who likes to fuss with houseplants and water a lot, agave is probably not the plant for you. If, however, you're the type of person who likes to set it and forget it, and you have a sunny window, agave might the way to go. Be aware that some of the large varieties will eventually outgrow your room (unless you have a large greenhouse), and agave can be aggressive. They have irritating sap and sometimes very sharp thorns that can cause injuries to small children and even pets.

agave basic flowerig plants plant care

Aechmea bromeliads

Aechmea bromeliads are probably the most popular houseplant bromeliads on the market today. The stately plants generally have wide, strappy green leaves that sometimes appear to be lightly powdered. Their leaves have backward-curving spines that can be painful, so be careful how you pick them up. Although the plants themselves are beautiful, their long-lasting flowering bracts are stunning. Usually pink, they rise above the plant like a spiky crown, with smaller purple flowers emerging after time. It's not unusual for an aechmea flower spike to last for months.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Indirect light or moderate shade. Do not expose to direct sunlight, but they can be acclimated to higher light levels.
Water: Keep water in the central cup. Change water frequently with clean water to prevent odor and bacteria.
Temperature: Aim for 55ºF or higher. They can survive to 45ºF, but not for long.
Soil: Any soil mix. These are technically airplants that use their roots for support.
Fertilizer: Fertilizer sparingly with a liquid fertilizer during the growing season.

Propagation:

After the flower bract dies back, cut it off at the base. New plantlets will emerge from the mother plant, which will gradually die back and can be removed at soil level. These new plantlets can be potted up individually in small pots, or left to form a clump of plants. Make sure newly potted bromeliads are well supported—they have tendency to fall over as the root systems are weak at first.

Repotting:

Mature bromeliads should not be repotted. Smaller bromeliads can be potted into small containers until they are established, then moved into 4" or 6" pots until they flower. Be aware that a mature aechmea is a fairly top heavy plant and will tip over in a standard plastic pot. Make sure the pot is well weighted.

Varieties:

The two most common aechmea varieties include the A. chantinii, or zebra plant, and the A. fasciata, or urn plant. The zebra plant is distinguished by horizontal darker stripes across its leaves, while the urn plant has solid silver-green leaves. Other bromeliads include the A. blumenavii, which is upright and light green, and the A. 'Fosters Favorite,' which is a lower growing plant with reddish leaves. The A. 'Blue Tango' features narrow, light green leaves with a spectacular blue flower bract. The A. 'Del Mar' is a smaller blue bromeliad.

Grower's Tips:

Aechmea are wonderfully uncomplicated bromeliads to grow. The most important rules to follow are to keep the central cup filled with clean water. The plants like to be potted in smallish pots with absolutely perfect drainage. The water should run right through your potting media, leaving only slightly wet compost behind. If a bromeliad is unstable in the pot, it can be staked up. Don't replant deeply as this will kill the plant. Aechmea with lighter or silvery leaves can be slowly adapted to higher light levels and might appreciate being moved to a sheltered nook on your patio in the summer.

Aechmea basic flowerig plants plant care

Aeschynanthus—How to Grow Lipstick Vines and Basket Vines

Including the lipstick vine and basket vine, the Aeschynanthus genus includes remarkable hanging plants with showy red, orange or yellow terminal flowers that emerge from "tubes" which resemble lipstick cases. Better suited to its native rainforest habitat, Aeschynanthus presents a challenge for the indoor gardener. They generally require high humidity and warmth during the summer months, followed by a brief period of cold during the winter to stimulate a bloom. But if you can grow a phalaenopsis orchid, you can probably grow one of these, and the reward is no less visceral.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright, strong light, but not direct sunshine.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist throughout spring and summer, and reduce watering in the winter. Don't let it completely dry out. Very high humidity is preferred.
Temperature: Keep it warm and humid in the spring and summer, above 65ºF. In the winter, a brief period of 55-65ºF will cause inflorescence.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: When new growth appears in the spring, feed with a controlled-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer according to label directions.

Propagation:

Take cuttings in the spring, when the plant resumes normal growth. To successfully root cuttings, use a rooting hormone and provide bottom heat or use a covered rooting container.

Repotting:

Repot every year as needed. If the plant is to remain in the same container, refresh the exhausted potting soil with new potting media to provide better aeration and growth.

Varieties:

Of the 180 or so species of Aeschynanthus, only a few are found in cultivation. These include:

• A. radicans (Syn. A. lobbianus). The popular lipstick vine, with red tubular flowers that emerge from a "lipstick" case. The flowers have a yellow or creamy throat.
• A. speciosus. An epiphyte in its natural environment, with orange flowers up to 4 inches long. Sometimes called the basket vine.
• A. pulcher. Similar to A. radicans, with light green flower tubes.

Grower's Tips:

Aeschynanthus are perfect as hanging or trailing plants. They require high humidity and warmth throughout the growing season, as well as strong (but not direct) light. After the season is over, cut the trailing stems back in preparation for another year—otherwise, it will tend toward leginess. Do not spray plants in bloom. These are perfect for a greenhouse,

Aeschynanthus basic cattleya hybrid orchid flowerig plants plant care

Oncidium Orchids

Oncidiums are popular indoor and florist orchids for a very good reason: their large sprays of flowers often sag with dozens of blooms. There are actually several hundred recognized oncidium species, but the naming isn't stable, so there is considerable flux as experts reclassify plants. Additionally, they have been freely hybridized. The most common oncidium grow well under normal indoor conditions. They have large pseudobulbs that arise from a mass of thin white roots. The large leaves (up to 2 ft.) emerge from the pseubobulbs. They flower in fall.

Light:

I find that oncidiums are much more forgiving of bright, even direct, light than other popular orchids, especially the phalaenopsis. Oncidiums can handle direct morning light and prefer bright to very bright conditions. They tend to enjoy the same light I give dendrobiums.

Water:

During the growing season, water daily or every other day. Be careful, though, because drainage is an absolute priority, and the potting media must be perfectly free draining. The plants can also be grown on slabs or in baskets. Because oncidiums have large, fleshy pseubobulbs and masses of roots, they are very prone to rot. If you see a psuedobulb beginning to rot, cut it out with sterile snippers and reduce the amount of water. In the winter, reduce watering to bimonthly or less. They can withstand considerable drought because of their large pseudobulbs. Wrinkled pseudobulbs generally indicate lack of water.

Fertilizer:

During the growing season, feed with a weak orchid fertilizer bimonthly or scatter slow-release pellets in the growing media at the beginning of the season. Although there are many species, in general, the larger the plant, the more heavily it will feed.

Temperature:

Oncidiums can be found in many habitats, from semiarid subtropical lowlands to cool and misty cloud forests. Generally, the most popular oncidiums, which feature small yellow flowers, large pseudobulbs and strappy leaves, are intermediate to warm orchids. Do not expose them to cold drafts or tempatures below about 50. Even temps in the mid-50s will cause the plant to slow its growth if they last too long.

Blooming:

Oncidiums are magnificent in bloom. A large, well-grown plant might send out six or seven branched sprays of yellow flowers. The effect is very much like a cloud of buttery butterflies. The most popular species include O. leucochilum, O. longipes, O. sarcodes, O. pulchellum, as well as many hybrids. Although oncidiums are known for their yellow flowers, other varieties are available. The O. Sharry Baby is sometimes called the chocolate orchid for its sprays of brownish flowers with a rich cocoa scent.

Potting and Repotting:

Oncidiums like to be slightly underpotted in a very free-draining bark-based potting media. Many of the oncidiums will form large clumps of pseudobulbs and develop into rather large plants. They can be easily divided into clumps when repotting. Just make sure you have at least three pseudobulbs in each division. In general, only repot when necessary.

Grower's Tips:

Like many orchids, once an oncidium has adjusted to its conditions, they're not difficult plants to grow. My greatest success with these plants has come almost by accident: I inherited a very large one and didn't really have room for it, so I stuck it in the corner of my collection and essentially forgot about it. That fall, I was rewarded with a profusion of blooms. Since then, I've enthusiastically grown oncidium. Watch your water to avoid rot, make sure the big plants are fed well, give it lots of light, and your oncidium will produce.

basic flowerig plants Oncidium orchid plant care

Cymbidium Orchids

 Cymbidiums have been making a much-deserved comeback in recent years as more people discover these wonderful orchids. They are much more cold-tolerant than many common species of orchids and feature sprays of large blooms in the dead of winter. Much of the new interest in cymbidiums is driven by the appearance of the miniature cymbidiums. These plants are smaller and more manageable than the earlier varieties.

Light:

During the growing season, cymbidiums appreciate dappled sunlight, or about 50 percent shade. They can be moved outdoors in the summer, providing they are not put into direct sunlight. A few hours of weak morning sunlight and shady afternoons is perfect. Move the cymbidiums outside after the threat of frost has passed. If you're growing them indoors, a southeast or east window is perfect. Your leaves should be apple green, as opposed to dark green. A dark green plant is likely not receiving enough sunlight to provoke a good bloom.

Water:

Copious water during the growing season (spring, summer and fall). The purer the water, the better the plants. Accumulated salts in tap water can damage the plants, so make sure they are well flushed every time you water the plant. During the winter bloom, reduce watering dramatically, but don't let the plant dry out. Keep the potting media slightly damp to the finger. Plants that are affected by the salt build-up in tap water will exhibit leaf-tip dieback, a condition in which the leaf tips turn black and die.

Fertilizer:

During the growing season, feed with a weak orchid fertilizer bimonthly or scatter slow-release pellets in the growing media at the beginning of the season. Be careful to avoid a high nitrogen fertilizer as this will cause rapid foliage growth at the expense of the bloom.

Temperature:

Cymbidiums are considerably more cold tolerant than some other popular orchids. The large, older cymbidiums need an extended period of cold to provoke a bloom, while the miniatures aren't quite as dependent on cold weather to bloom. Cymbidiums have been known to briefly withstand freezing temperatures, although frost will kill them. Nights down to 40ºF are fine. On the other side, cymbidiums can also withstand considerably summer heat without wilting, as they are suited to the temperate regions of Asia where there is considerable variation in seasonal and day/night temperatures.

Blooming:

The cymbidium bloom is triggered by a combination of falling temperatures and reduced water. The miniatures have generally been crossed with warm-house orchids, so they aren't quite as dependent on cold weather to bloom, but it's still an important part of cymbidium culture. The natural bloom season is during the winter, when your plants should be indoors and available for display. Cymbidium flowers grow in sprays, with spikes arising from new pseudobulbs every season.

Potting and repotting:

Cymbidiums are semi-terrestrial orchids. They naturally grown in loamy humus, sending thin roots into the mixture. Thus, they are perfectly suited to the conditions most easily provided at home: a rich, loose, organic potting mixture. Most growers recommend using fir bark, perlite, peat moss, and other loose organic material in some combination. A commercial paphiopedilum mix will usually serve these plants well. Cymbidiums can be easily divided during repotting in the spring.

Grower's Tips:

Cymbidiums are wonderful orchids to grow in the middle and coastal regions of the United States and other temperate countries. They can be grown outside during the spring, summer and fall, and moved back inside at the first threat of frost. During the summer, they will grow quickly, sending up new pseudobulbs topped with long, strappy leaves. The flowers are on display during the winter months. A well-grown cymbidium is resistant to most insects, but as with all orchids, there is some risk of aphids, scale and other insects. Treat with standard products, always following label directions.

basic Cymbidium flowerig plants orchid plant care

Fertilizing Orchids — How to Feed Your Orchid Collection

 The difference between a merely good orchid and a spectacular specimen plant is usually fertilizer.

Like any other plant, orchids need fertilizer to thrive. It's true that they need less than most other plants—and too much fertilizer can quickly burn an orchid’s sensitive roots—but there is no doubt that well-fed orchids are healthier, hold their leaves longer and bear more flowers.

Here are the basics when it comes to fertilizing your orchid collection.

• Use a high-quality fertilizer. There are lots of opinions on which fertilizer is the best, and a whole industry has sprung up to sell specialized orchid foods. You can quickly get lost in the advanced chemistry of various fertilizer claims. But here's the skinny: one nitrogen molecule is very much like another nitrogen molecule. In fact, the quality of your water matters more than your brand of fertilizer. So when it comes to fertilizer, buy a high-quality, balanced fertilizer that contains the three major elements (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium), plus all the minor nutrients (sulfur, calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, boron, copper, zinc, molybdenum, and chlorine). I also recommend a low-urea or urea-free fertilizer because urea is not a truly available source of nitrogen for epiphytic orchids.
• Weekly, weakly. This is an old rule of thumb among orchid growers: "Water weekly, weakly." You can judge the strength of a commercial fertilizer by the concentration of the major nutrients. (Click on Fertilizer Basics for a more complete description.) In general, however, you'll probably be safe using a standard 20-20-20 fertilizer at quarter strength, and a 10-10-10 fertilizer at half strength. Follow the label directions on specialty orchid fertilizers.
• Don't Overfeed! Overfeeding will not benefit your plants. Synthetic fertilizers contain mineral salts, such as potassium, calcium and others. Over time, these salts build up in your pot and potting medium and can seriously harm the plant. Additionally, overfed orchids often grow too quickly, making them weak and susceptible to disease. Finally, many kinds of orchids actually bloom worse if they're overfed. Find the fine line and stick with it.
• Feed during the growing season. Many orchids—dendrobiums, for example—go into dormancy over the winter months. Others, such as cattleya, slow way down in their growth. There is little purpose in feeding a dormant plant. Start fertilizing again once the plant shows signs of fresh growth in the spring.
• To bloom-boost or not? It's increasingly easy to find specialized bloom-boosters that offer slightly different nutrient balances or micronutrients designed to enhance orchid flowering. These are tempting, but unless you're a professional grower, there's little benefit to these products. First, most home orchid collections carry multiple genera that flower at different times of the year. Second, different genera have different flowering requirements. When you get down to it, a high-quality, well-balanced fertilizer is just as effective at producing blooms as a booster, and it will benefit all your plants, not just the bloomers.

basic flowerig plants orchid

Growing Indoor Orchids

To grow an orchid, you have to think like an orchid.

The golden rule for orchid success is to duplicate the plant's natural conditions as closely as possible. In nature, most orchids are epiphytes, meaning they grow on other objects, clinging to rough bark or even stone. The showy orchids favored by most people are usually either phalaenopsis hybrids (so-called moth orchids) or dendrobium hybrids.

These plants thrive in these conditions:

• Strong light, but not direct late-afternoon sunlight (although dendrobiums can handle more sun)
• High humidity
• Turbulent air flow around the roots
• Regular periods of drying, alternating with drenching rains
• Temperatures between 50 degrees and about 85 degrees

The closer you can come to creating these conditions in your growing area, the more success and better blooms you will have.

Most store-bought orchids come packaged in cheap plastic pots with the roots packed in soaked moss. Obviously, this violates two of the main rules of successful growth. There is no air flow around the roots, and the roots are never given a chance to completely dry out. Thus, the plant cannot breathe and root rot is inevitable. Orchid roots are highly specialized organs designed to soak up water very quickly and breathe. They do not extract nutrients from soil.

Repotting for Success

The first step with any store-bought orchid is to enjoy the bloom. Don't attempt to repot a flowering plant.

After the bloom is done, go ahead and cut off the dead flower spike with sterile snippers and repot the plant. Orchids should be potted into specialized orchid pots in orchid mixture. Orchid pots feature wide drainage slits so water will literally run through the pot. They are widely available. Orchid potting mixture is usually composed of several chunky ingredients, including pine bark, charcoal, and even styrofoam.

To repot your orchid, follow these steps:

1. Remove it from the plastic pot and carefully remove as much of the moss as you can. Healthy roots should be white and firm, with a small green growing point.
2. Cut away any shriveled, rotten or blackened roots.
3. Set the plant into the pot and fill in around it with potting mixture. The plant should be firmly situated, but it will not be completely anchored. Eventually, new roots will grow through the potting mixture and attach to the pot itself, thus anchoring your plant.

Once it's repotted, find a good spot. An east facing window with a few hours of mild morning sun is perfect. To provide the necessary humidity and catch run-off water, put the plant into a wide, deep tray and fill the tray with gravel.

Tips for Care

Caring for your orchid is pretty simple. During the summer months, water it weekly and heavily. Let the water drench the roots and fill up the pebble tray (this will provide extra humidity). It doesn't hurt every so often to even put the plant in the kitchen sink and really soak it down. Don't worry, you won't kill it as long as it's allowed to dry out afterward. During the growing season, feed it weekly with a weak solution of a powder or liquid fertilizer. Many growers use Peter’s 20/20/20 fertilizer at quarter strength.

In the winter, keep your plant warm and cut the water back to once a month or so. Mist it every so often to make sure it stays hydrated. Don't fertilize it.

If you see signs of distress, such as yellowing leaves, wrinkled leaves or no blooms, move the plant and keep tweaking your conditions. Once an orchid finds a happy spot, and falls into a routine, the plant should regularly throw out new roots and leaves or canes (depending on the type) and reward you yearly with a beautiful bloom.

basic orchid