How to Grow Aloe Plants

Native to Africa and the surrounding regions, there are about 400 species in the Aloe genus. Of these, about five are commonly found in cultivation. The most famous is Aloe vera, which has been used medicinally for centuries. All Aloe plants are succulents, forming low rosettes of lance-shaped fleshy leaves or, in the case of A. arborescens, growing into a taller, bare-stemmed plant topped with 10-inch leaves. Many kinds of Aloe have relatively harmless spines on their leaves, but it's still worth being careful. Besides A. vera, attractive varieties include A. aristata (Lace Aloe) and A. variegata (Tiger Aloe).

Growing Conditions:

Light: Strong, bright light. They can withstand full summer sun, once acclimated. In the winter, provide bright light.
Water: Water generously in the summer and nearly cease watering in the winter. Do not let water stand in the rosettes.
Temperature: Prefers warmer temperatures of 70ºF to 80ºF, but will survive down to 40ºF
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential; use a cacti or succulent mix.
Fertilizer: Feed with a cactus fertilizer in the summer only. Suspend feeding in the winter as the plant goes dormant.

Propagation:

During repotting of a larger plant, it is possible to carefully divide the root ball. Some kinds of aloe will send off off-sets that can be potted independently.

Repotting:

Aloe are not particularly fast-growing and will only rarely need repotting. Repot plants in the spring that are tipping over their pots or have ceased growing. Use a fast-draining potting mix with one-third sand or pebbles.

Grower's Tips:

Aloe is a very forgiving plant, and a well-grown aloe can be quite beautiful. The variegated Tiger Aloe forms bunches of low rosettes with green bands on wide leaves. As with all succulents, it's essential that aloe is never allowed to sit in stagnant water, and the plant should be carefully monitored to watch for signs of overwatering. Many people keep a pot of aloe vera in the house to use the juice from the fleshy leaves on burns and minor skin irritations. Aloe will almost never flower in cultivation.

basic flower flowering plants plant care

How to Grow Alocasia Houseplants

There are many things you might call the Alocasia genus— stunning, architectural, jewel-like—and all of them are appropriate. Sometimes called elephant ears (a terms that is also applied to Colocasia, Xanthosoma, and even Monstera), these are very tropical collector’s plants that have a passionate following. Although there is some variation among the different species and hybrids, these general rules apply to most Alocasia species.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Varies from shade to full sunlight. Ask the grower if the plant is sun-trained. Leaf color tends to be better among plants with more light.
Water: Keep moist all year, with very high humidity. They are water-loving plants.
Temperature: Will start to suffer below 60ºF. Some will die back during colder weather and resprout from the rhizome.
Soil: Loose, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Can be heavy feeders, especially large specimens. Feed with liquid fertilizer during growing season, or frequent, small applications of granule fertilizer.

Propagation:

Most Alocasia can be propagated by clump or rhizome division. Cut off a piece of the underground rhizome and pot up separately, then keep warm and moist until growth begins.

Repotting:

Repot annually into larger pots with fresh, free-draining potting soil. Divide the rhizome annually to keep the plant a manageable size and increase your collection.

Varieties:

There are about 70 species of Alocasia, as well as dozens of hybrids. Alocasia are primarly hybridized for their leaf form, color and size. For pictures of Alocasia examples, see the Alocasia Image Gallery.

Grower's Tips:

Alocasia range in size from the jewel Amazon lily (A. Amazonica) to the truly enormous A. macrorrhiza. Additionally, the plant has been extensively hybridized. Most Alocasia will do okay in shade, but they often appreciate slightly brighter, filtered sunlight. The bigger ones can be trained to handle full tropical sun. Keep all species warm, moist and humid. Trim away failing leaves. Like all aroids, the Alocasia flower with a typical spathe and spadix, but the flower is usually unremarkable and can even be slightly vulgar.

flower flowering plants plant care

How to Grow Aglaonema Houseplants

 

The aglaonema is a highly decorative plant with several interesting varieties. There seems to be a little controversy in the books over whether this plant is easy or difficult to grow. The simple rule to follow is this: the lighter the variegation, the more light it needs. Otherwise, these are slow growing, dependably attractive and make excellent foliage plants. They have large, narrow oval leaves on short stems.

Growing Conditions:

Light: The darker green varieties can grow in near shade, while the variegated varieties require brighter light. Do not expose to direct sun.
Water: Water thoroughly in the summer, and mist often to raise humidity. During the winter, reduce watering but do not let the plant dry completely. Seek to raise humidity in general.
Temperature: They do not like cold drafts or temperatures below 65ºF. The warmer, the better.
Soil: A well-drained potting soil is perfect.
Fertilizer: Slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer during the growing season.

Propagation:

Aglaonema are not typically propagated by home growers, but they can be divided during repotting. Small shoots can be potted as individual plants.

Repotting:

They are slow growing and will only need repotting every other year. Aglaonema are generally low-growing plants that will only very gradually reveal their trunks.

Varieties:

Aglaonema have been hybridized to produce interesting variegated leaves. The A. commutatum in widely available, in both the Silver Spear (variegated) form and a green form. A pure green A. modestum is seen more rarely. Beware the fruit of the A. crispum, which are toxic. Other variegated forms include A. pictum, A. silver queen (almost totally silver), and A. pseudobracteatum.

Grower's Tips:

Because of their high humidity requirements, some growers consider aglaonema to be greenhouse plants. It's true they will do best in the warm, humid and bright environment of a greenhouse, but they can successfully be grown indoors by coming as close as possible to these conditions. The number one rule to remember with aglaonema is this: keep them warm and moist. If you do this, you'll be rewarded with a long-lasting, stable houseplant that will not soon outgrow its pot.

basic flowerig plants plant care

Agave grow Indoors

Agave can be exceptional houseplants, depending on which one you buy. There are about 450 species of agave, including the famous century plant (which, for the record, does flower more often than once a century). As desert plants, agave appreciate direct, abundant sunlight and light water. They are slow-growing, so even specimens that grow into large plants can be kept inside for a period of time before they outgrow the room. Agave are not very "people friendly;" their sap tends to be irritating and most of them feature truly intimidating spines on their leaves that make brushing against them a painful adventure.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright sunlight year-round. Consider moving your plants outside during the summer, where they can luxuriate in full sunlight, and make sure they get plenty of winter light.
Water: In spring, water with warm water just as the soil begins to dry out. Don't let the soil become completely dry. In the winter and fall, when growth is suspended, water very lightly.
Temperature: They prefer warm spring and summer temperatures (70-90ºF) and cooler fall and winter temps (50-60ºF).
Soil: Use standard succulent or cacti potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring and summer; do not feed during fall and winter.

Propagation:

Agave are difficult to grow from seed, and indoor plants will rarely flower anyway. Instead, use off-sets as the plant ages. In general, however, propagation of agave grown as houseplants can be difficult, since plants may not produce off-sets at all, and once potted up, off-sets frequently take a long time to begin growing. In most cases, it's better to simply buy a new plant or take your propagation efforts to the greenhouse or glasshouse. If you are potting up off-sets, use a cactus soil and keep them in a place with strong light. Lightly water and give them plenty of time to form strong roots before repotting.

Repotting:

In general, agave do not need to be repotted every year. Most of the species commonly found in cultivation grow very slowly and will take a long time to outgrow their pot. It's also best to handle your agave as little as possible, since they do not like to be disturbed. When you do repot, refresh the spent soil with new potting mix and make sure the plant is firmly anchored in its pot. However, be careful not to pot the agave too deep as that will encourage stem rot during the growing season. When repotting, use a fast-draining cacti or succulent mix. Do not use a mix that will become soggy or hold water.

Varieties:

There are dozens of species of agave found in cultivation, including many species that grow into giants. Some of the more popular species include:

• A. americana. Sometimes called the century plant, it has beautiful bluish leaves with prominent, saw-tooth spines. A variegated variety, A. americana 'Marginata' is available. These grow very large.
• A. victoriae-reginae. This small agave has upright leaves tipped with black spines that only measure about ten inches in height. This is a good indoor plant, but not as beautiful as the A. Americana.
• A filifera. This rare plant has filaments extending from its leaf tips.

Grower's Tips:

Agave is not a difficult plant to grow. They're slow-growing and dramatic and will even thrive on a bit of neglect. If you're the type of person who likes to fuss with houseplants and water a lot, agave is probably not the plant for you. If, however, you're the type of person who likes to set it and forget it, and you have a sunny window, agave might the way to go. Be aware that some of the large varieties will eventually outgrow your room (unless you have a large greenhouse), and agave can be aggressive. They have irritating sap and sometimes very sharp thorns that can cause injuries to small children and even pets.

agave basic flowerig plants plant care

African violets

African violets are one of the world's most popular houseplants, and for good reason. These compact, low-growing plants flower several times a year, and they are available in a multitude of leaf forms and colors. Don't be put off by their reputation for difficulty: providing you follow a few simple rules, African violets should thrive indoors. With a little experience, it's possible to keep them in flower nearly all year round and grow them to the size of dinner plates.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright, but not direct sunlight. They are commonly grown under fluorescent lights placed 12 to 15 inches above the leaves.
Water: Keep soil moist with warm water and strive for high humidity. Do not allow water to contact the leaves to prevent damage, other than light misting. Water from below, or push the water spout into the soil when watering. Don't allow the plant to sit in water.
Temperature: Do not allow to fall below about 60ºF. They thrive at 70ºF.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix is essential.
Fertilizer: Feed with a African violet fertilizer every other week.

Propagation:

African violets can be propagated from leaf cuttings or from offsets. Adult plants occasionally produce small plantlets or shoots from the side. Remove these and pot up independently. Removing them also encourages better blooms on the parent plant.

Repotting:

African violets do better when they are slightly underpotted. Repot only when necessary into a pot that is one size up.

Varieties:

The original plants, the S. ionantha, were introduced in Germany in 1893. Two years later, the S. confusa were introduced. Since then, thousands of varieties have been produced. Today, African violets are available in single and double flowers, in all different colors, and with widely varied leaf shapes.

Grower's Tips:

African violets will thrive in bright, warm and humid conditions. Keep water from touching their leaves or it will leave brown spots. Remove dead flowers and leaves as soon as you seen them to encourage a healthier plant. Regularly check the soil and plant to make sure there is no accumulation of dead leaves. This will encourage rot.

African violets flowerig plants plant care

African Spear—How to Grow Sansevieria Cylindrica

I first saw these interesting plants at a trade show, where they won an award for most unusual new plant. Truth is, Sansevieria cylindrical is only new to the United States. People in the United Kingdom and Australia have been growing them for some time. Sometimes called the African spear plant, the Sansevieria cylindrica has all the ease and durability of the popular snake plant and the appeal of lucky bamboo. The plant consists of stout, cylindrical spears that spring from the sandy soil. They can be braided or left in their natural fan shape. Best of all, they can be almost ignored and the plant will thrive.

Growing Conditions:

Light:Bright, filtered light, but highly tolerant.
Water: Can survive long periods of drought. Water monthly or less in winter, weekly or every other week in summer.
Temperature: Above 50ºF, but can survive cold spells.
Soil: Use a fast-draining cactus mix.
Fertilizer: Feed during growing season. Do not feed during winter.

Propagation:

African spears can be divided when several spears are present, but it's usually best to buy a new plant.

Repotting:

Repot annually or every other year in the spring. They will survive being rootbound.

Varieties:

The basic species is Sansevieria cylindrica, although there are a few varieties available, and some growers have experimented with braiding or shaping the basic plant. Spear-like Sansevieria may be lightly banded or solid colored, ranging in size from 12 inches to 24 inches. All species, however, are equally hardy.

Grower's Tips:

These are almost foolproof plants. They can survive long periods of drought, haphazard feeding, and being root bound. Similarly, they can be acclimated to deep shade or bright light. Truly, they thrive on neglect. One exception to this rule: their pots must be well drained. Like succulents, the roots cannot be allowed to sit in water or they will begin to rot. These make great desktop plants for people who want something besides lucky bamboo. They bear small flower spikes arising from the base of the spears.

African Spear flowerig plants plant care

Aechmea bromeliads

Aechmea bromeliads are probably the most popular houseplant bromeliads on the market today. The stately plants generally have wide, strappy green leaves that sometimes appear to be lightly powdered. Their leaves have backward-curving spines that can be painful, so be careful how you pick them up. Although the plants themselves are beautiful, their long-lasting flowering bracts are stunning. Usually pink, they rise above the plant like a spiky crown, with smaller purple flowers emerging after time. It's not unusual for an aechmea flower spike to last for months.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Indirect light or moderate shade. Do not expose to direct sunlight, but they can be acclimated to higher light levels.
Water: Keep water in the central cup. Change water frequently with clean water to prevent odor and bacteria.
Temperature: Aim for 55ºF or higher. They can survive to 45ºF, but not for long.
Soil: Any soil mix. These are technically airplants that use their roots for support.
Fertilizer: Fertilizer sparingly with a liquid fertilizer during the growing season.

Propagation:

After the flower bract dies back, cut it off at the base. New plantlets will emerge from the mother plant, which will gradually die back and can be removed at soil level. These new plantlets can be potted up individually in small pots, or left to form a clump of plants. Make sure newly potted bromeliads are well supported—they have tendency to fall over as the root systems are weak at first.

Repotting:

Mature bromeliads should not be repotted. Smaller bromeliads can be potted into small containers until they are established, then moved into 4" or 6" pots until they flower. Be aware that a mature aechmea is a fairly top heavy plant and will tip over in a standard plastic pot. Make sure the pot is well weighted.

Varieties:

The two most common aechmea varieties include the A. chantinii, or zebra plant, and the A. fasciata, or urn plant. The zebra plant is distinguished by horizontal darker stripes across its leaves, while the urn plant has solid silver-green leaves. Other bromeliads include the A. blumenavii, which is upright and light green, and the A. 'Fosters Favorite,' which is a lower growing plant with reddish leaves. The A. 'Blue Tango' features narrow, light green leaves with a spectacular blue flower bract. The A. 'Del Mar' is a smaller blue bromeliad.

Grower's Tips:

Aechmea are wonderfully uncomplicated bromeliads to grow. The most important rules to follow are to keep the central cup filled with clean water. The plants like to be potted in smallish pots with absolutely perfect drainage. The water should run right through your potting media, leaving only slightly wet compost behind. If a bromeliad is unstable in the pot, it can be staked up. Don't replant deeply as this will kill the plant. Aechmea with lighter or silvery leaves can be slowly adapted to higher light levels and might appreciate being moved to a sheltered nook on your patio in the summer.

Aechmea basic flowerig plants plant care

Aeschynanthus—How to Grow Lipstick Vines and Basket Vines

Including the lipstick vine and basket vine, the Aeschynanthus genus includes remarkable hanging plants with showy red, orange or yellow terminal flowers that emerge from "tubes" which resemble lipstick cases. Better suited to its native rainforest habitat, Aeschynanthus presents a challenge for the indoor gardener. They generally require high humidity and warmth during the summer months, followed by a brief period of cold during the winter to stimulate a bloom. But if you can grow a phalaenopsis orchid, you can probably grow one of these, and the reward is no less visceral.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright, strong light, but not direct sunshine.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist throughout spring and summer, and reduce watering in the winter. Don't let it completely dry out. Very high humidity is preferred.
Temperature: Keep it warm and humid in the spring and summer, above 65ºF. In the winter, a brief period of 55-65ºF will cause inflorescence.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: When new growth appears in the spring, feed with a controlled-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer according to label directions.

Propagation:

Take cuttings in the spring, when the plant resumes normal growth. To successfully root cuttings, use a rooting hormone and provide bottom heat or use a covered rooting container.

Repotting:

Repot every year as needed. If the plant is to remain in the same container, refresh the exhausted potting soil with new potting media to provide better aeration and growth.

Varieties:

Of the 180 or so species of Aeschynanthus, only a few are found in cultivation. These include:

• A. radicans (Syn. A. lobbianus). The popular lipstick vine, with red tubular flowers that emerge from a "lipstick" case. The flowers have a yellow or creamy throat.
• A. speciosus. An epiphyte in its natural environment, with orange flowers up to 4 inches long. Sometimes called the basket vine.
• A. pulcher. Similar to A. radicans, with light green flower tubes.

Grower's Tips:

Aeschynanthus are perfect as hanging or trailing plants. They require high humidity and warmth throughout the growing season, as well as strong (but not direct) light. After the season is over, cut the trailing stems back in preparation for another year—otherwise, it will tend toward leginess. Do not spray plants in bloom. These are perfect for a greenhouse,

Aeschynanthus basic cattleya hybrid orchid flowerig plants plant care

Achimenes—Growing Cupid's Bow Flowers

Achimenes are a delightful relative of the African violet. They grow from small underground rhizomes that sprout in the late winter/early spring and eventually explode in a variety of lush blooms. Today, breeders have worked extensively with the plant to create wonderful blossom colors, including white, pink and purple. These are warm-sill plants that dislike direct sunlight, but crave warm and moist homes. After the bloom is done in the late summer, the plant will begin to die back and you can overwinter the rhizome in dry peat moss until it's ready to be planted in fresh soil again near the end of the winter and the cycle starts over again. Some varieties make excellent hanging plants.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Achimenes prefer bright, but not direct sunlight. Strong sunlight will burn their leaves.
Water: Begin watering the freshly planted rhizomes in late winter until new sprouts emerge. After that, and throughout the growing season, keep the soil continuously moist as the plant grows. When it begins to die back in the fall, reduce watering until it's died completely, then suspend watering and keep the rhizome in a cool, dry place.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining potting mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize every week with a weak liquid fertilizer. It also works to include controlled-release fertilizer pellets in the soil.

Propagation:

There are two ways to propagate Achimenes. First, you can root stem-tip cuttings in the early spring, when the plant has gained enough mass that it won't miss a few cuttings. Use a rooting hormone and keep them in a warm, bright place until they begin to grow. The second method is by rhizome division, which is usually carried out in the winter, just before you begin to feed and water the plant again. Divide larger rhizomes in half.

Repotting:

Every spring, the rhizome should be planted in a fresh pot of potting soil. They prefer a nonalkaline soil, so a peat-based mixture (which tends to be slightly acidic) is perfect. At the end of the growing season, remove the plant from its old pot and place the old rhizome in a fresh bag of dry potting mix. Keep it at around 50˚F for the remainder of the winter until it's time to pot it out again.

Varieties:

The vast majority of the Achimenes on the market today are carefully hybridized plants that were bred for the color of their blooms. There are both cascading and upright versions, so make sure the one you're buying fits your needs. Some of the more popular Achimenes varietals include:

• Ambroise Verschaffelt, which is white with violet petal veins.
• Charm, which features pink flowers.
• Blue Monarch, which has blue flowers.

There are also a few species variations available, including the A. erecta, which stays under two feet and grows upright with red blooms; A. grandiflora, which grows to two feet with purplish flowers; and A. longiflora, a compact specimen that stays about a foot tall.

Grower's Tips:

There are not difficult plants to grow and offer beautiful, seasonal blooms. To encourage bushy plants with more blooms, pinch off the growing tips as the plant grows in the springtime—you'll be rewarded with richer displays of blooms. Fertilization is important for these plants: use a high-phosphorous fertilizer to get the best results and feed continuously throughout the season in small doses. When it comes time to pot up the year's rhizomes, make sure to discard any rhizomes that have dried out or become shriveled. These are unlikely to sprout and will only disappoint. Finally, be aware that these plants are vulnerable to aphids and thrips.

Achimenes flowerig plants orchid plant care

Oncidium Orchids

Oncidiums are popular indoor and florist orchids for a very good reason: their large sprays of flowers often sag with dozens of blooms. There are actually several hundred recognized oncidium species, but the naming isn't stable, so there is considerable flux as experts reclassify plants. Additionally, they have been freely hybridized. The most common oncidium grow well under normal indoor conditions. They have large pseudobulbs that arise from a mass of thin white roots. The large leaves (up to 2 ft.) emerge from the pseubobulbs. They flower in fall.

Light:

I find that oncidiums are much more forgiving of bright, even direct, light than other popular orchids, especially the phalaenopsis. Oncidiums can handle direct morning light and prefer bright to very bright conditions. They tend to enjoy the same light I give dendrobiums.

Water:

During the growing season, water daily or every other day. Be careful, though, because drainage is an absolute priority, and the potting media must be perfectly free draining. The plants can also be grown on slabs or in baskets. Because oncidiums have large, fleshy pseubobulbs and masses of roots, they are very prone to rot. If you see a psuedobulb beginning to rot, cut it out with sterile snippers and reduce the amount of water. In the winter, reduce watering to bimonthly or less. They can withstand considerable drought because of their large pseudobulbs. Wrinkled pseudobulbs generally indicate lack of water.

Fertilizer:

During the growing season, feed with a weak orchid fertilizer bimonthly or scatter slow-release pellets in the growing media at the beginning of the season. Although there are many species, in general, the larger the plant, the more heavily it will feed.

Temperature:

Oncidiums can be found in many habitats, from semiarid subtropical lowlands to cool and misty cloud forests. Generally, the most popular oncidiums, which feature small yellow flowers, large pseudobulbs and strappy leaves, are intermediate to warm orchids. Do not expose them to cold drafts or tempatures below about 50. Even temps in the mid-50s will cause the plant to slow its growth if they last too long.

Blooming:

Oncidiums are magnificent in bloom. A large, well-grown plant might send out six or seven branched sprays of yellow flowers. The effect is very much like a cloud of buttery butterflies. The most popular species include O. leucochilum, O. longipes, O. sarcodes, O. pulchellum, as well as many hybrids. Although oncidiums are known for their yellow flowers, other varieties are available. The O. Sharry Baby is sometimes called the chocolate orchid for its sprays of brownish flowers with a rich cocoa scent.

Potting and Repotting:

Oncidiums like to be slightly underpotted in a very free-draining bark-based potting media. Many of the oncidiums will form large clumps of pseudobulbs and develop into rather large plants. They can be easily divided into clumps when repotting. Just make sure you have at least three pseudobulbs in each division. In general, only repot when necessary.

Grower's Tips:

Like many orchids, once an oncidium has adjusted to its conditions, they're not difficult plants to grow. My greatest success with these plants has come almost by accident: I inherited a very large one and didn't really have room for it, so I stuck it in the corner of my collection and essentially forgot about it. That fall, I was rewarded with a profusion of blooms. Since then, I've enthusiastically grown oncidium. Watch your water to avoid rot, make sure the big plants are fed well, give it lots of light, and your oncidium will produce.

basic flowerig plants Oncidium orchid plant care

Cymbidium Orchids

 Cymbidiums have been making a much-deserved comeback in recent years as more people discover these wonderful orchids. They are much more cold-tolerant than many common species of orchids and feature sprays of large blooms in the dead of winter. Much of the new interest in cymbidiums is driven by the appearance of the miniature cymbidiums. These plants are smaller and more manageable than the earlier varieties.

Light:

During the growing season, cymbidiums appreciate dappled sunlight, or about 50 percent shade. They can be moved outdoors in the summer, providing they are not put into direct sunlight. A few hours of weak morning sunlight and shady afternoons is perfect. Move the cymbidiums outside after the threat of frost has passed. If you're growing them indoors, a southeast or east window is perfect. Your leaves should be apple green, as opposed to dark green. A dark green plant is likely not receiving enough sunlight to provoke a good bloom.

Water:

Copious water during the growing season (spring, summer and fall). The purer the water, the better the plants. Accumulated salts in tap water can damage the plants, so make sure they are well flushed every time you water the plant. During the winter bloom, reduce watering dramatically, but don't let the plant dry out. Keep the potting media slightly damp to the finger. Plants that are affected by the salt build-up in tap water will exhibit leaf-tip dieback, a condition in which the leaf tips turn black and die.

Fertilizer:

During the growing season, feed with a weak orchid fertilizer bimonthly or scatter slow-release pellets in the growing media at the beginning of the season. Be careful to avoid a high nitrogen fertilizer as this will cause rapid foliage growth at the expense of the bloom.

Temperature:

Cymbidiums are considerably more cold tolerant than some other popular orchids. The large, older cymbidiums need an extended period of cold to provoke a bloom, while the miniatures aren't quite as dependent on cold weather to bloom. Cymbidiums have been known to briefly withstand freezing temperatures, although frost will kill them. Nights down to 40ºF are fine. On the other side, cymbidiums can also withstand considerably summer heat without wilting, as they are suited to the temperate regions of Asia where there is considerable variation in seasonal and day/night temperatures.

Blooming:

The cymbidium bloom is triggered by a combination of falling temperatures and reduced water. The miniatures have generally been crossed with warm-house orchids, so they aren't quite as dependent on cold weather to bloom, but it's still an important part of cymbidium culture. The natural bloom season is during the winter, when your plants should be indoors and available for display. Cymbidium flowers grow in sprays, with spikes arising from new pseudobulbs every season.

Potting and repotting:

Cymbidiums are semi-terrestrial orchids. They naturally grown in loamy humus, sending thin roots into the mixture. Thus, they are perfectly suited to the conditions most easily provided at home: a rich, loose, organic potting mixture. Most growers recommend using fir bark, perlite, peat moss, and other loose organic material in some combination. A commercial paphiopedilum mix will usually serve these plants well. Cymbidiums can be easily divided during repotting in the spring.

Grower's Tips:

Cymbidiums are wonderful orchids to grow in the middle and coastal regions of the United States and other temperate countries. They can be grown outside during the spring, summer and fall, and moved back inside at the first threat of frost. During the summer, they will grow quickly, sending up new pseudobulbs topped with long, strappy leaves. The flowers are on display during the winter months. A well-grown cymbidium is resistant to most insects, but as with all orchids, there is some risk of aphids, scale and other insects. Treat with standard products, always following label directions.

basic Cymbidium flowerig plants orchid plant care