How to plant chillies in pot or polybags

Go green :) and having fun to plant.

How to plant chili in a pot or polybag

In this opportunity I will explain How to plant chili organically but will only have a narrow area. Chilli cultivation in a polybag or a pot is the solution. Chilli crop that thrives in pots can be used as a decoration or a patio home page. In addition to getting our yard trimmer also benefit from the harvest of chilli fruit itself.

Chili thriving organically we can use to cook their own purposes and the rest can be divided into neighbors. Even if we plant hundreds polybag we can sell our crops. If we grow the right way, the production of organic chilli cultivation in polybags not inferior to that grown on the land. Precisely organic chilli plant in a polybag or pot easier management in terms of fertilization and pest control.

The things we need to prepare before we plant organic chillies in pots or polybag is:

• Polybags or pots that are not too small a minimum diameter of 25 cm, that chili should be at least greater than 35 cm.
• Planting medium soil mixed with organic fertilizer with a ratio of 1: 1
• A bucket and dipper / yells.
• Handsprayer
• Seed chilies
• Organic Pesticides (some have maspary wrote in the last article)
• liquid organic fertilizer such as agro Solbi, we can also use the MOL / local microorganisms.

HOW TO PLANT CHILLIES IN POT OR POLYBAGS

to plant chillies in pot or polybags can follow this step :

1. First seedlings chilli seeds that we have prepared. Chilli seeds we can buy at the farm stall or make your own with a nice chilli sorting, we take the seeds and then we dry aired. Seeding can be done in pots, polybags or jars and other containers.
2. While waiting for chilli seeds ready should we prepare media seedlings in polybags or pots. Do not forget our soil mixed with organic fertilizer with a ratio of 1: 1. After that our media flush with liquid fertilizer.
3. After five leaves (approximately 3-5 weeks of age) to plant chilli in a polybag or potting media that we have prepared. 2-3 days before we planted the seeds of chilli growing media in polybags should we flush with MOL solution until wet.
4. After we plant should polybag / pot we put in the shade until approximately 1 week, and then we put on the site to full light. Do not place the shade on, later chilli plants will experience etiolase (long and limp but little fruit).
5. Take care chilli plants carefully, flush if the land is dry and at least 1 week once we flush with MOL and we spray the pesticide plant that could easily be our own.
6. Remove water shoots / buds that grow under the first branch.
7. Observe the presence of pests and diseases, if there is an attack symptoms should quickly be overcome by mechanical means (we take pest and affected leaves, and we separate the plants healthy and the sick to be easy in the management of pests and diseases). If the dry season leaves should be watered frequently to reduce the attack ticks, otherwise if when the rainy season should we cut our chilli plants that are not too dense.
8. At last time wait until the fruiting chilli plants and we can learn and we enjoy spiciness.

That’s a little written about How to plant chillies in pot or polybags.

Go green (^ _ ^)

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How to Grow Desert Rose Plants

The desert rose (Adenium obesum) is a striking plant with swollen succulent stems and deep red flowers. The plant is deciduous in cooler winters, but it can be kept in leaf provided there is sufficient warmth and light water. There is no part of these plants that doesn't command interest, from the dramatically swollen stems on older plants to the bright flowers to the tight clusters of narrow, green leaves. Beware, though, the sap of the desert rose is poisonous and should never come into contact with children or pets. If you get sap on yourself while handling the plant, wash your hands immediately.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring. Reduce water in the winter, but keep hydrated enough to retain its leaves.
Temperature: Keep at least 50º at all times; if you keep temperatures of 60º or higher during the winter, the plant may retain its leaves.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Fertilize during spring and summer with controlled-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer according to label directions.

Propagation:

Typically by seed. If your plant develops a seed pod, plant the seeds as soon as possible after the pod ripens to maximize chances of germination. The desert rose can be propagated from branch cuttings, but these plants often fail to develop the characteristic (and highly desired) bulbous stem.

Repotting:

Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the plant from the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide and antibacterial solution. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.

Varieties:

Adenium belongs to the genera Apocynaceae, which is native to Africa, the Middle East and Madagascar. The desert rose (A. obesum) is the only Adenium found in wide cultivation, although it has been hybridized extensively to obtain different flower colors, including orange, white, striped and the traditional red.

Grower's Tips:

These are not difficult plants to grow well, provided they get enough sunlight and warmth. Like all succulents, they cannot tolerate sitting in water, and if you err, do it on the side of too little water. Use a specialized soil mix designed for succulents and cacti.

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Growing Cyclamen Houseplants

Cyclamen are the most rare of houseplants: a natural winter bloomer with beautiful, swept-back flowers and stunning leaves. These plants are snapped up during the grey and long winter months to provide a jolt of color and life. And they deliver in spades: cyclamen flower for months at a time, and their flowers are available in beautiful pastel shades, as well as white and purple. Because of their popularity, cyclamen have been hybridized for the past century, and there are many types today, all arising from the same parent. In terms of growth, cyclamen are perfectly suited for many a winter windowsill. They prefer cold temperatures (a warm room is deadly) and bright, but not direct light. Many people throw their cyclamen out after the bloom is over and spring has arrived, but this isn't strictly necessary. Follow a few simple steps for another pot of blooms next winter.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright light, but avoid full sun during the winter growing season. An hour or two of direct sunlight won't cause too much damage, but more than that and you risk sunburn. During its summer dormancy, keep in a cool, dark place until new growth emerges.
Water: Keep the soil constantly moist during the winter months, drenching as needed. Never water from overhead, however, to discourage fungal diseases. Cyclamen thrive in relatively higher humidity than most houses, so a gravel dish with water might be a good idea. Cut water far back during the dormancy, watering barely enough to keep the roots from drying out.
Temperature: Cyclamen thrive at cooler temperatures, often between 50˚F and 60˚F. Avoid warm, dry rooms, which can cause plant collapse.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: Fertilize adequately during the winter growing season, with controlled-release fertilizer and liquid fertilizer. Stop feeding during the summer dormancy.

Propagation:

Cyclamen can be rooted from seeds, but expect to wait up to 18 months for the new plants to flower. Most people buy new cyclamen at the beginning of the winter season. When buying a cyclamen, look for a plant that has lots of unopened buds.

Repotting:

If you're keeping your cyclamen, you'll repot the plant in the late summer, when new growth is just beginning to emerge. Repot into fresh soil and a new pot.

Varieties:

The wild species of cyclamen is known as Cyclamen persicum and originates in the Middle East. This plant has been extensively bred for color and leaf traits and its descendents are often labeled C. persicum giganteum. Choose your cyclamen based on its leaf and flower color. There are many varietals available, especially in the autumn and winter months.

Grower's Tips:

For best results, buy your cyclamen early in the season and look for a plant with plenty of unopened buds. Throughout the winter, keep the soil continuously moist, using the submersion watering method or watering from the bottom with a tray. Ideally, keep the surrounding area cool and moist. As the season nears the end, allow the foliage to turn brown and die, then snip it off and remove it. Place the plant in a cool and dark place for the summer and give it just enough water to keep the roots from drying out throughout the summer months. New growth will emerge at the end of the summer, meaning it's time to repot your plant and enjoy another season of blooms. Expert your cyclamen to last a few years until the tuber is exhausted. Cyclamens are also prone to mites, which are recognized by their fine white webs on the underside of leaves. Severely infected plants should be discarded.

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Growing Codiaeum Variegatum

The croton (Codiaeum variegatum) appears to have it all: colorful foliage, nearly limitless leaf forms, and a cultish following. But these plants do have a drawback—they're difficult to please indoors. In their native habitats, crotons like humid, warm conditions, with dappled light and plentiful water. The problem indoors is typically temperature; too cold, and they start losing leaves. However, crotons are well worth the effort because a well-grown croton is an explosion of color.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright, indirect light. They do not like unfiltered, direct sunlight, but thrive in dappled sunlight. Vibrant colors depend on bright light.
Water: Keep evenly moist in the summer, and reduce watering in the winter to biweekly. Mist frequently during the growth period.
Temperature: Keep above 60ºF and do not expose to cold drafts.
Soil: A well-drained potting soil is perfect.
Fertilizer: Slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer during the growing season.

Propagation:

Crotons are easily propagated through stem cuttings. Use a rooting hormone to increase the odds of success. Crotons sometimes produce "sports," or shoots that are completely different from the parent plant. These can be potted up independently. Crotons do not grow well from seed as the plant is unstable and the offspring will not resemble the parent. Only cuttings will produce a plant that is identical to the parent.

Repotting:

Repot in spring if necessary.

Varieties:

There are hundreds and hundreds of croton varieties, with names like Dreadlocks, Ann Rutherford, Mona Lisa, and Irene Kingsley. For a plant with this incredible diversity, it's amazing there is only species (C. variegatum). However, crotons are genetically unstable, so each plant is unique, and interesting varieties are highly prized by enthusiastic collectors. Crotons are often subdivided by their leaf type: curling, twisted, oak leaf, narrow, broad, oval, etc.

Grower's Tips:

A well-grown croton will keep its leaves all the way to the soil level—and the trick to this is to provide steady warmth. Even in outdoor settings, crotons will drop leaves after a cold night. However, these plants respond well to trimming. If a croton becomes leggy, prune it back hard at the beginning of the growing season, move it outside, and the plant will regrow from the cut portion. As a last note: vibrant leaf colors depend on the quality of light. Don't shy away from providing lots of bright, shifting sunlight.

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How to Grow Dracaena Fragrans

The corn plant is an oldie but goodie in the houseplant industry. Europeans have been using them as indoor plants since the mid-1800s and they’ve been popular in the United States since the early twentieth century. Corn plants are grown as thick canes that sprout from buds along the cane, achieving a “false palm” effect (they’re sometimes called false palms). They make good houseplants because they are tall and narrow, with controlled growth, and can withstand a fairly significant amount of abuse from casual indoor gardeners.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Try to locate them near a window with filtered sun. Too little light will result in leaves losing their stripes.
Water: Keep evenly moist, but if you have to err, do so on the dry side. Keeping it too dry, however, will result in brown leaf tips. They prefer about 40% humidity. Use non-fluoridated water as they are sensitive to fluoride.
Temperature: Keep above 55ºF if possible. They do best in the mid-70ºs.
Soil: Loose, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize lightly since the plants store nutrients in their canes. Use calcium supplements (chelated calcium or even gypsum) to prevent leaf-tip burn.

Propagation:

Corn plants root readily from cuttings. Push tip cuttings into warm soil and keep moist. You can also root cane pieces directly by pushing into growing medium. Make sure the dirt is strong enough to support the cane upright. Rooting hormone can help increase rooting.

Repotting:

Repot annually into larger pots with fresh, free-draining potting soil.

Varieties:

The true Dracaena fragrans has solid green leaves, but most people prefer the D. fragrans ‘Massangeana,’ which features a central, broad lime-green stripe down the middle of the leaf. Another variety, D. fragrans ‘Lindenii,’ has a dark green stripe down the middle and yellowish leaves. A final variety, D. frangrans ‘Victoria,’ has white and cream stripes, but is rarely seen in garden centers.

Grower's Tips:

Corn plants are often sold in groups of three canes in larger pots—perfect for a spot on the floor by the window. Like other dracaena, these are sensitive to fluoride and boron, which can cause leaf-tip burn. Water with nonfluoridated water. Other causes of brown leaf tips are temperature fluctuations, water stress, and calcium deficiency. If your plant is happy, the biggest problem is likely to be dust on its leaves. Clean the leaves with a damp cloth every so often to keep it looking its best. If the plant grows too tall, you can cut the canes, and new leaf buds will break out near the cut.

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How to Grow Cordyline Indoors

Cordyline are common decorative plants that appear under a few names in garden centers. In fact, the whole thing can get rather confusing. The most popular indoor cordyline is the C. terminalis, which is often sold as C. fruticosa or Dracaena terminalis. Likewise, these plants are often referred to as "Ti plants" or "Hawaiian Ti trees." However, Dracaena fragrans, with its bright green leaves, are also sold as Ti plants, and in fact, cordyline and dracaena are both members of the agave family. The best way to tell the difference is look at the roots: cordyline roots are white, and dracaena roots are yellow or orange.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright light, but avoid direct sunlight in unhabituated plants.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist, but reduce watering in the winter. High humidity is preferred.
Temperature: Above 62ºF is preferred. Avoid cold drafts if temperature drops lower.
Soil: Rich, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring with slow-release pellets or weekly during growing season with liquid fertilizer.

Propagation:

By cuttings, which can be placed horizontally in the soil to sprout. Also by air layering.

Repotting:

Repot in spring or every other spring as needed.

Varieties:

There are 15 species of cordyline, but only a few are commonly seen in cultivation:

• C. australis. Resembles yucca plant, with narrow, long and grayish to dark leaves.
• C. terminalis. A gaudy, show plant with nearly infinite varieties. Leaves are wide (3") and thin and come in green, red, black, yellow, orange and mixed colors. Varieties include C. terminalis 'tricolor', C. terminalis 'Rededge', C. terminalis 'Firebrand' and C. terminalis 'Ti'.

Grower's Tips:

C. australis is more like a desert plant than its cousin C. terminalis, but it's less interesting. Over time, cordyline tend toward leginess: the best solution is to trim individual stems back in a staggered pattern. A mature, well-trimmed C. terminalis should have stems of various heights, up to 3–4 ft., and be clothed in leaves to the soil level. These are jungle plants, so if you're experiencing leaf drop, try raising both temperature and humidity.

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How to Grow Coleus Plants Indoors

Coleus are one of the rare plants that are grown almost exclusively for colorful foliage. In this regard, they're like crotons, but they're smaller and perhaps somewhat easier to grow inside. Coleus are truly in their glory in masses—their leaves are available in green, purple, orange, red, yellow, and in a striking array of patterns. Coleus are also fun plants to propagate; new plants grown from seed will be new creations. Although I've given directions to grow them year-round, coleus are often grown as annuals and discarded once they become leggy.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright light, avoiding direct midday sunlight. Too much sun will wash out the colors in their leaves.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist throughout the year, but reduce watering in winter. High humidity is preferred.
Temperature: Above 60ºF is preferred in the summer. In winter, above 50º is best.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring with slow-release pellets or weekly during growing season with liquid fertilizer.

Propagation:

By cuttings or seed. Cuttings will be identical to the parent plant, but newly seeded plants will be variable. Plants grown for propagation, however, generally do not look as good as ones grown exclusively for their foliage. The energy of flowering usually saps the plant of some vitality, which is why many growers pinch off flowers.

Repotting:

A large coleus will reach only 2-3 feet. They grow rapidly in the spring, but many people don't overwinter them, so they never bother repotting the plant. If you choose to grow coleus for more than one season, you might consider trimming the plant back after the winter, refreshing the soil, and keeping it in the same pot. Alternatively, go up one pot size.

Varieties:

There are actually about 60 species of coleus, all native to Asia and Malaysia. However, virtually all of the coleus available are derived from the single C. Blumei species, crossed with a few other species. Hybridizing work within this group has been extensive—there are literally hundreds, if not thousands, of cultivars. Buy a coleus for its leaves and don't worry too much about its parentage.

Grower's Tips:

Growing coleus indoors is definitely possible, providing you give it enough moisture, heat and humidity. If the plant goes into flower, snip off the unremarkable flowers to encourage vitality, and pinch off growing tips to encourage bushiness. Coleus tend toward brittle leginess, so they are best used in displays with other coleus or with other plants. If the plant starts to lose its leaves, it's probably too dark or cold. If the color washes out, it's probably getting too much sun.

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How to Grow Lycopodium Squarrosa

Club Moss is a striking plant that resembles a host of giant, furry caterpillars. Technically classified as fern allies, these ancient plants are among the oldest forms of plant life on the planet—yet also among the most striking. Be aware, though, that Lycopodium of any species tend to be challenging, and although the L. squarrosa is easier than many of its more challenging cousins, it is not generally considered a beginner’s plant. Greenhouse cultivation is best.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Filtered light or bright shade with no direct sunlight.
Water: These can be mounted on tree fern or grown in baskets and thus require frequent, drenching water applications.
Temperature: Prefers warm and humid conditions. Keep above 65ºF if possible.
Soil: Use an orchid potting mix, or pot straight into sphagnum moss. Adult plants are truly epiphytic.
Fertilizer: Feed throughout growing season with liquid fertilizer.

Propagation:

Lycopodium squarrosa propagate by spoors. This is not easily accomplished at home and requires specialized skills and materials. Most casual collectors buy specimens.

Repotting:

Large L. squarrosa may feature several feet of pendant fronds hanging from the basket or mounting plank. These plants do not need to be repotted, and repotting would only reduce their visual appeal and possible harm the plant. Once established, let them grow unhindered.

Varieties:

The Lycopodium genera is actually quite large, and today many botanists have separated out some specimens into the Huperzia classification, so this plant can be correctly identified as either L. squarrosa or H. squarrosa.

Grower's Tips:

Provided with plenty of water, immaculate drainage, good airflow, and high humidity, these can grow into show-stopping plants. In general, I find that if you can successfully grow some of the more challenging orchids, such as vandas, you can probably grow L. squarrosa fairly well because their cultural conditions are similar. Despite the challenges, it may be worth it: a well-grown plant is striking.

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How to Grow Cast Iron Plants

Known as cast iron plants, Aspidistra have earned their reputation as nearly indestructible houseplants. They are fairly undemanding and will survive through neglect that would easily kill a lesser plant. These tough, attractive plants are members of the lily family. They feature upright, strappy leaves that grow from an underground rhizome.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Semi-shade to bright, but will not tolerate direct sun.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist throughout spring and summer, and reduce watering in the winter.
Temperature: Thrives at temperatures from 60ºF to 80ºF. Does not like extreme cold.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize regularly during growing season with liquid fertilizer, or use controlled-release twice during growing season.

Propagation:

By division. Take pieces of the rhizome that include at least two leaves. Pot into fresh potting soil and keep moist and warm until new shoots begin to emerge.

Repotting:

Repot every year or every other year as needed. As rhizomous plants, cast iron plants can tolerate less frequent repotting.

Varieties:

Closely related to the lily, there are eight species in the Aspidistra genus. All are native to Asia. Of these, only one is commonly grown, A. elatior, which features upright green and dark leaves. A. elatior variegata is a variegated version that has attractive white striping on the leaves. The variegated version is less hardy than its darker cousin.

Grower's Tips:

These are highly dependable, attractive and tolerant plants. The vast majority of mistakes with cast iron plants are caused by either too much water coupled with dark corners (they dislike waterlogged soil) or by direct sunlight, which will cause leaves to turn yellow, then brown and die. Older plants can often be rejuvenated from intact rhizomes, even ones that might seem to be dried out from lack of water. These are also great patio plants.

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How to Grow Calathea

 The genus Calathea includes some of the most beautiful and striking tropical foliage plants in the world. Closely related to the similarly gorgeous Maranta, Calathea species generally have boldly marked, upright, oblong leaves in a dazzling array of colors held on long, upright stalks. As true tropical plants, they are somewhat fussy about their conditions, but a well-grown Calathea is worth the effort.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Light shade or dappled light indoors. Do not expose to direct, noon sun as it will fade the leaf colors.
Water: High humidity. Keep soil continuously moist throughout spring and summer, and reduce watering in the winter.
Temperature: Prefers warm and humid conditions. Keep above 60ºF if possible.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed regularly with liquid fertilizer throughout growing season.

Propagation:

Propagation is possible by division at repotting time. Keep new divisions warm and moist by covering the pot with plastic and providing reduced light until active growth starts again.

Repotting:

Repot every year or every other year into fresh potting mix. Divide at repotting time.

Varieties:

There are many varieties of Calathea:

• C. makoyana. Features purplish coloring on the undersides of leaves, with white and green on top. Known as the peacock plant.
• C. zebrina. The zebra plant has green markings on the leaf top and purple leaf undersides.
• C. crocata. Plain leaves, but displays of upright oragen-red flowers.
• C. ornata. Reddish marking on leaf tops with purple undersides.

Grower's Tips:

Calathea have a reputation as a greenhouse plant, and it's easy to see why. They re highly sensitive to cold, drafts, and sudden temperature fluctuations. They grow best in warm, humid and bright stable conditions, but not direct sunlight. Calathea thrive in bottle gardens and terrariums due to their high humidity. Plants grown in arid conditions are frequently attacked by mites and scale.

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How to Grow Caladium

 It's a pity caladium are rarely thought of as houseplants. These plants are almost unparalleled for their foliage. They have large, arrow-shaped and paper-thin leaves that come in a striking array of colors and patterns. A mass of caladium is an explosion of whites, greens, reds and pinks ... mottled, veined and striped. But these plants have a few drawbacks. They are tuberous plants that only grow foliage from spring to autumn, they require very high humidity, and they have absolutely no cold tolerance. Nevertheless, as far as unusual indoor plants go, these are sure to raise a few admiring eyebrows.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Indirect light or moderate shade indoors. The narrower the leaves, the greater the sun it can withstand.
Water: When leaves appear, keep evenly moist. Never allow to dry out and keep humidity as high as practical.
Temperature: The warmer the better. Aim for 70º if possible—tubers begin to grow around 70ºF.
Soil: Rich, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize weekly during the growing season with liquid or use slow-release pellets.

Propagation:

Mature tubers can be divided; make sure that each new tuber section has at least one growing site.

Repotting:

Indoors or out, caladium are a seasonal plant, with foliage in the summer and a rest period in the autumn or winter. Their rest period isn't determined by temperature or light cycle, but by how long the plant has been growing. After the leaves begin to die back in the fall, either keep the tubers in the same pot (keeping it dry) or remove, clean and put into sawdust or sand to store. Store tubers above 55ºF to minimize loss of healthy tubers. Plant them out again when the next growing season begins.

Varieties:

There are literally too many cultivars to keep track of—caladium cultivars are green, red, pink, white, even orange. In many cases, cultivars are sold without names. Almost all cultivars are descended from the C. bicolor, which is native to South America. Some books list these plants as C. hortulanum. Personally, I buy caladiums for their foliage and don't worry too much about the cultivar.

Grower's Tips:

Caladiums are a seasonal plant even in the tropics, where gardeners plant them in the spring and summer months when they'll thrive in the heat and wet. In the home situation, they'll do best with lots of heat, bright but indirect light, and lots of humidity. But even under the best conditions, caladiums will only last a few months before their leaves start to die back and the plant goes dormant again. This is OK—they're supposed to do that. Use masses of them as striking summer accents and conversation pieces. When they die back, save the tubers in a bag and replant next year for another show.

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