How to plant chillies in pot or polybags

Go green :) and having fun to plant.

How to plant chili in a pot or polybag

In this opportunity I will explain How to plant chili organically but will only have a narrow area. Chilli cultivation in a polybag or a pot is the solution. Chilli crop that thrives in pots can be used as a decoration or a patio home page. In addition to getting our yard trimmer also benefit from the harvest of chilli fruit itself.

Chili thriving organically we can use to cook their own purposes and the rest can be divided into neighbors. Even if we plant hundreds polybag we can sell our crops. If we grow the right way, the production of organic chilli cultivation in polybags not inferior to that grown on the land. Precisely organic chilli plant in a polybag or pot easier management in terms of fertilization and pest control.

The things we need to prepare before we plant organic chillies in pots or polybag is:

• Polybags or pots that are not too small a minimum diameter of 25 cm, that chili should be at least greater than 35 cm.
• Planting medium soil mixed with organic fertilizer with a ratio of 1: 1
• A bucket and dipper / yells.
• Handsprayer
• Seed chilies
• Organic Pesticides (some have maspary wrote in the last article)
• liquid organic fertilizer such as agro Solbi, we can also use the MOL / local microorganisms.

HOW TO PLANT CHILLIES IN POT OR POLYBAGS

to plant chillies in pot or polybags can follow this step :

1. First seedlings chilli seeds that we have prepared. Chilli seeds we can buy at the farm stall or make your own with a nice chilli sorting, we take the seeds and then we dry aired. Seeding can be done in pots, polybags or jars and other containers.
2. While waiting for chilli seeds ready should we prepare media seedlings in polybags or pots. Do not forget our soil mixed with organic fertilizer with a ratio of 1: 1. After that our media flush with liquid fertilizer.
3. After five leaves (approximately 3-5 weeks of age) to plant chilli in a polybag or potting media that we have prepared. 2-3 days before we planted the seeds of chilli growing media in polybags should we flush with MOL solution until wet.
4. After we plant should polybag / pot we put in the shade until approximately 1 week, and then we put on the site to full light. Do not place the shade on, later chilli plants will experience etiolase (long and limp but little fruit).
5. Take care chilli plants carefully, flush if the land is dry and at least 1 week once we flush with MOL and we spray the pesticide plant that could easily be our own.
6. Remove water shoots / buds that grow under the first branch.
7. Observe the presence of pests and diseases, if there is an attack symptoms should quickly be overcome by mechanical means (we take pest and affected leaves, and we separate the plants healthy and the sick to be easy in the management of pests and diseases). If the dry season leaves should be watered frequently to reduce the attack ticks, otherwise if when the rainy season should we cut our chilli plants that are not too dense.
8. At last time wait until the fruiting chilli plants and we can learn and we enjoy spiciness.

That’s a little written about How to plant chillies in pot or polybags.

Go green (^ _ ^)

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How to Grow Desert Rose Plants

The desert rose (Adenium obesum) is a striking plant with swollen succulent stems and deep red flowers. The plant is deciduous in cooler winters, but it can be kept in leaf provided there is sufficient warmth and light water. There is no part of these plants that doesn't command interest, from the dramatically swollen stems on older plants to the bright flowers to the tight clusters of narrow, green leaves. Beware, though, the sap of the desert rose is poisonous and should never come into contact with children or pets. If you get sap on yourself while handling the plant, wash your hands immediately.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring. Reduce water in the winter, but keep hydrated enough to retain its leaves.
Temperature: Keep at least 50º at all times; if you keep temperatures of 60º or higher during the winter, the plant may retain its leaves.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Fertilize during spring and summer with controlled-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer according to label directions.

Propagation:

Typically by seed. If your plant develops a seed pod, plant the seeds as soon as possible after the pod ripens to maximize chances of germination. The desert rose can be propagated from branch cuttings, but these plants often fail to develop the characteristic (and highly desired) bulbous stem.

Repotting:

Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the plant from the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide and antibacterial solution. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.

Varieties:

Adenium belongs to the genera Apocynaceae, which is native to Africa, the Middle East and Madagascar. The desert rose (A. obesum) is the only Adenium found in wide cultivation, although it has been hybridized extensively to obtain different flower colors, including orange, white, striped and the traditional red.

Grower's Tips:

These are not difficult plants to grow well, provided they get enough sunlight and warmth. Like all succulents, they cannot tolerate sitting in water, and if you err, do it on the side of too little water. Use a specialized soil mix designed for succulents and cacti.

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Growing Cyclamen Houseplants

Cyclamen are the most rare of houseplants: a natural winter bloomer with beautiful, swept-back flowers and stunning leaves. These plants are snapped up during the grey and long winter months to provide a jolt of color and life. And they deliver in spades: cyclamen flower for months at a time, and their flowers are available in beautiful pastel shades, as well as white and purple. Because of their popularity, cyclamen have been hybridized for the past century, and there are many types today, all arising from the same parent. In terms of growth, cyclamen are perfectly suited for many a winter windowsill. They prefer cold temperatures (a warm room is deadly) and bright, but not direct light. Many people throw their cyclamen out after the bloom is over and spring has arrived, but this isn't strictly necessary. Follow a few simple steps for another pot of blooms next winter.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright light, but avoid full sun during the winter growing season. An hour or two of direct sunlight won't cause too much damage, but more than that and you risk sunburn. During its summer dormancy, keep in a cool, dark place until new growth emerges.
Water: Keep the soil constantly moist during the winter months, drenching as needed. Never water from overhead, however, to discourage fungal diseases. Cyclamen thrive in relatively higher humidity than most houses, so a gravel dish with water might be a good idea. Cut water far back during the dormancy, watering barely enough to keep the roots from drying out.
Temperature: Cyclamen thrive at cooler temperatures, often between 50˚F and 60˚F. Avoid warm, dry rooms, which can cause plant collapse.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: Fertilize adequately during the winter growing season, with controlled-release fertilizer and liquid fertilizer. Stop feeding during the summer dormancy.

Propagation:

Cyclamen can be rooted from seeds, but expect to wait up to 18 months for the new plants to flower. Most people buy new cyclamen at the beginning of the winter season. When buying a cyclamen, look for a plant that has lots of unopened buds.

Repotting:

If you're keeping your cyclamen, you'll repot the plant in the late summer, when new growth is just beginning to emerge. Repot into fresh soil and a new pot.

Varieties:

The wild species of cyclamen is known as Cyclamen persicum and originates in the Middle East. This plant has been extensively bred for color and leaf traits and its descendents are often labeled C. persicum giganteum. Choose your cyclamen based on its leaf and flower color. There are many varietals available, especially in the autumn and winter months.

Grower's Tips:

For best results, buy your cyclamen early in the season and look for a plant with plenty of unopened buds. Throughout the winter, keep the soil continuously moist, using the submersion watering method or watering from the bottom with a tray. Ideally, keep the surrounding area cool and moist. As the season nears the end, allow the foliage to turn brown and die, then snip it off and remove it. Place the plant in a cool and dark place for the summer and give it just enough water to keep the roots from drying out throughout the summer months. New growth will emerge at the end of the summer, meaning it's time to repot your plant and enjoy another season of blooms. Expert your cyclamen to last a few years until the tuber is exhausted. Cyclamens are also prone to mites, which are recognized by their fine white webs on the underside of leaves. Severely infected plants should be discarded.

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Growing Codiaeum Variegatum

The croton (Codiaeum variegatum) appears to have it all: colorful foliage, nearly limitless leaf forms, and a cultish following. But these plants do have a drawback—they're difficult to please indoors. In their native habitats, crotons like humid, warm conditions, with dappled light and plentiful water. The problem indoors is typically temperature; too cold, and they start losing leaves. However, crotons are well worth the effort because a well-grown croton is an explosion of color.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright, indirect light. They do not like unfiltered, direct sunlight, but thrive in dappled sunlight. Vibrant colors depend on bright light.
Water: Keep evenly moist in the summer, and reduce watering in the winter to biweekly. Mist frequently during the growth period.
Temperature: Keep above 60ºF and do not expose to cold drafts.
Soil: A well-drained potting soil is perfect.
Fertilizer: Slow-release pellets or liquid fertilizer during the growing season.

Propagation:

Crotons are easily propagated through stem cuttings. Use a rooting hormone to increase the odds of success. Crotons sometimes produce "sports," or shoots that are completely different from the parent plant. These can be potted up independently. Crotons do not grow well from seed as the plant is unstable and the offspring will not resemble the parent. Only cuttings will produce a plant that is identical to the parent.

Repotting:

Repot in spring if necessary.

Varieties:

There are hundreds and hundreds of croton varieties, with names like Dreadlocks, Ann Rutherford, Mona Lisa, and Irene Kingsley. For a plant with this incredible diversity, it's amazing there is only species (C. variegatum). However, crotons are genetically unstable, so each plant is unique, and interesting varieties are highly prized by enthusiastic collectors. Crotons are often subdivided by their leaf type: curling, twisted, oak leaf, narrow, broad, oval, etc.

Grower's Tips:

A well-grown croton will keep its leaves all the way to the soil level—and the trick to this is to provide steady warmth. Even in outdoor settings, crotons will drop leaves after a cold night. However, these plants respond well to trimming. If a croton becomes leggy, prune it back hard at the beginning of the growing season, move it outside, and the plant will regrow from the cut portion. As a last note: vibrant leaf colors depend on the quality of light. Don't shy away from providing lots of bright, shifting sunlight.

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How to Grow Dracaena Fragrans

The corn plant is an oldie but goodie in the houseplant industry. Europeans have been using them as indoor plants since the mid-1800s and they’ve been popular in the United States since the early twentieth century. Corn plants are grown as thick canes that sprout from buds along the cane, achieving a “false palm” effect (they’re sometimes called false palms). They make good houseplants because they are tall and narrow, with controlled growth, and can withstand a fairly significant amount of abuse from casual indoor gardeners.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Try to locate them near a window with filtered sun. Too little light will result in leaves losing their stripes.
Water: Keep evenly moist, but if you have to err, do so on the dry side. Keeping it too dry, however, will result in brown leaf tips. They prefer about 40% humidity. Use non-fluoridated water as they are sensitive to fluoride.
Temperature: Keep above 55ºF if possible. They do best in the mid-70ºs.
Soil: Loose, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize lightly since the plants store nutrients in their canes. Use calcium supplements (chelated calcium or even gypsum) to prevent leaf-tip burn.

Propagation:

Corn plants root readily from cuttings. Push tip cuttings into warm soil and keep moist. You can also root cane pieces directly by pushing into growing medium. Make sure the dirt is strong enough to support the cane upright. Rooting hormone can help increase rooting.

Repotting:

Repot annually into larger pots with fresh, free-draining potting soil.

Varieties:

The true Dracaena fragrans has solid green leaves, but most people prefer the D. fragrans ‘Massangeana,’ which features a central, broad lime-green stripe down the middle of the leaf. Another variety, D. fragrans ‘Lindenii,’ has a dark green stripe down the middle and yellowish leaves. A final variety, D. frangrans ‘Victoria,’ has white and cream stripes, but is rarely seen in garden centers.

Grower's Tips:

Corn plants are often sold in groups of three canes in larger pots—perfect for a spot on the floor by the window. Like other dracaena, these are sensitive to fluoride and boron, which can cause leaf-tip burn. Water with nonfluoridated water. Other causes of brown leaf tips are temperature fluctuations, water stress, and calcium deficiency. If your plant is happy, the biggest problem is likely to be dust on its leaves. Clean the leaves with a damp cloth every so often to keep it looking its best. If the plant grows too tall, you can cut the canes, and new leaf buds will break out near the cut.

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How to Grow Cordyline Indoors

Cordyline are common decorative plants that appear under a few names in garden centers. In fact, the whole thing can get rather confusing. The most popular indoor cordyline is the C. terminalis, which is often sold as C. fruticosa or Dracaena terminalis. Likewise, these plants are often referred to as "Ti plants" or "Hawaiian Ti trees." However, Dracaena fragrans, with its bright green leaves, are also sold as Ti plants, and in fact, cordyline and dracaena are both members of the agave family. The best way to tell the difference is look at the roots: cordyline roots are white, and dracaena roots are yellow or orange.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright light, but avoid direct sunlight in unhabituated plants.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist, but reduce watering in the winter. High humidity is preferred.
Temperature: Above 62ºF is preferred. Avoid cold drafts if temperature drops lower.
Soil: Rich, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring with slow-release pellets or weekly during growing season with liquid fertilizer.

Propagation:

By cuttings, which can be placed horizontally in the soil to sprout. Also by air layering.

Repotting:

Repot in spring or every other spring as needed.

Varieties:

There are 15 species of cordyline, but only a few are commonly seen in cultivation:

• C. australis. Resembles yucca plant, with narrow, long and grayish to dark leaves.
• C. terminalis. A gaudy, show plant with nearly infinite varieties. Leaves are wide (3") and thin and come in green, red, black, yellow, orange and mixed colors. Varieties include C. terminalis 'tricolor', C. terminalis 'Rededge', C. terminalis 'Firebrand' and C. terminalis 'Ti'.

Grower's Tips:

C. australis is more like a desert plant than its cousin C. terminalis, but it's less interesting. Over time, cordyline tend toward leginess: the best solution is to trim individual stems back in a staggered pattern. A mature, well-trimmed C. terminalis should have stems of various heights, up to 3–4 ft., and be clothed in leaves to the soil level. These are jungle plants, so if you're experiencing leaf drop, try raising both temperature and humidity.

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How to Grow Coleus Plants Indoors

Coleus are one of the rare plants that are grown almost exclusively for colorful foliage. In this regard, they're like crotons, but they're smaller and perhaps somewhat easier to grow inside. Coleus are truly in their glory in masses—their leaves are available in green, purple, orange, red, yellow, and in a striking array of patterns. Coleus are also fun plants to propagate; new plants grown from seed will be new creations. Although I've given directions to grow them year-round, coleus are often grown as annuals and discarded once they become leggy.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright light, avoiding direct midday sunlight. Too much sun will wash out the colors in their leaves.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist throughout the year, but reduce watering in winter. High humidity is preferred.
Temperature: Above 60ºF is preferred in the summer. In winter, above 50º is best.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring with slow-release pellets or weekly during growing season with liquid fertilizer.

Propagation:

By cuttings or seed. Cuttings will be identical to the parent plant, but newly seeded plants will be variable. Plants grown for propagation, however, generally do not look as good as ones grown exclusively for their foliage. The energy of flowering usually saps the plant of some vitality, which is why many growers pinch off flowers.

Repotting:

A large coleus will reach only 2-3 feet. They grow rapidly in the spring, but many people don't overwinter them, so they never bother repotting the plant. If you choose to grow coleus for more than one season, you might consider trimming the plant back after the winter, refreshing the soil, and keeping it in the same pot. Alternatively, go up one pot size.

Varieties:

There are actually about 60 species of coleus, all native to Asia and Malaysia. However, virtually all of the coleus available are derived from the single C. Blumei species, crossed with a few other species. Hybridizing work within this group has been extensive—there are literally hundreds, if not thousands, of cultivars. Buy a coleus for its leaves and don't worry too much about its parentage.

Grower's Tips:

Growing coleus indoors is definitely possible, providing you give it enough moisture, heat and humidity. If the plant goes into flower, snip off the unremarkable flowers to encourage vitality, and pinch off growing tips to encourage bushiness. Coleus tend toward brittle leginess, so they are best used in displays with other coleus or with other plants. If the plant starts to lose its leaves, it's probably too dark or cold. If the color washes out, it's probably getting too much sun.

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How to Grow Lycopodium Squarrosa

Club Moss is a striking plant that resembles a host of giant, furry caterpillars. Technically classified as fern allies, these ancient plants are among the oldest forms of plant life on the planet—yet also among the most striking. Be aware, though, that Lycopodium of any species tend to be challenging, and although the L. squarrosa is easier than many of its more challenging cousins, it is not generally considered a beginner’s plant. Greenhouse cultivation is best.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Filtered light or bright shade with no direct sunlight.
Water: These can be mounted on tree fern or grown in baskets and thus require frequent, drenching water applications.
Temperature: Prefers warm and humid conditions. Keep above 65ºF if possible.
Soil: Use an orchid potting mix, or pot straight into sphagnum moss. Adult plants are truly epiphytic.
Fertilizer: Feed throughout growing season with liquid fertilizer.

Propagation:

Lycopodium squarrosa propagate by spoors. This is not easily accomplished at home and requires specialized skills and materials. Most casual collectors buy specimens.

Repotting:

Large L. squarrosa may feature several feet of pendant fronds hanging from the basket or mounting plank. These plants do not need to be repotted, and repotting would only reduce their visual appeal and possible harm the plant. Once established, let them grow unhindered.

Varieties:

The Lycopodium genera is actually quite large, and today many botanists have separated out some specimens into the Huperzia classification, so this plant can be correctly identified as either L. squarrosa or H. squarrosa.

Grower's Tips:

Provided with plenty of water, immaculate drainage, good airflow, and high humidity, these can grow into show-stopping plants. In general, I find that if you can successfully grow some of the more challenging orchids, such as vandas, you can probably grow L. squarrosa fairly well because their cultural conditions are similar. Despite the challenges, it may be worth it: a well-grown plant is striking.

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How to Grow Cast Iron Plants

Known as cast iron plants, Aspidistra have earned their reputation as nearly indestructible houseplants. They are fairly undemanding and will survive through neglect that would easily kill a lesser plant. These tough, attractive plants are members of the lily family. They feature upright, strappy leaves that grow from an underground rhizome.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Semi-shade to bright, but will not tolerate direct sun.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist throughout spring and summer, and reduce watering in the winter.
Temperature: Thrives at temperatures from 60ºF to 80ºF. Does not like extreme cold.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize regularly during growing season with liquid fertilizer, or use controlled-release twice during growing season.

Propagation:

By division. Take pieces of the rhizome that include at least two leaves. Pot into fresh potting soil and keep moist and warm until new shoots begin to emerge.

Repotting:

Repot every year or every other year as needed. As rhizomous plants, cast iron plants can tolerate less frequent repotting.

Varieties:

Closely related to the lily, there are eight species in the Aspidistra genus. All are native to Asia. Of these, only one is commonly grown, A. elatior, which features upright green and dark leaves. A. elatior variegata is a variegated version that has attractive white striping on the leaves. The variegated version is less hardy than its darker cousin.

Grower's Tips:

These are highly dependable, attractive and tolerant plants. The vast majority of mistakes with cast iron plants are caused by either too much water coupled with dark corners (they dislike waterlogged soil) or by direct sunlight, which will cause leaves to turn yellow, then brown and die. Older plants can often be rejuvenated from intact rhizomes, even ones that might seem to be dried out from lack of water. These are also great patio plants.

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How to Grow Calathea

 The genus Calathea includes some of the most beautiful and striking tropical foliage plants in the world. Closely related to the similarly gorgeous Maranta, Calathea species generally have boldly marked, upright, oblong leaves in a dazzling array of colors held on long, upright stalks. As true tropical plants, they are somewhat fussy about their conditions, but a well-grown Calathea is worth the effort.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Light shade or dappled light indoors. Do not expose to direct, noon sun as it will fade the leaf colors.
Water: High humidity. Keep soil continuously moist throughout spring and summer, and reduce watering in the winter.
Temperature: Prefers warm and humid conditions. Keep above 60ºF if possible.
Soil: A well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed regularly with liquid fertilizer throughout growing season.

Propagation:

Propagation is possible by division at repotting time. Keep new divisions warm and moist by covering the pot with plastic and providing reduced light until active growth starts again.

Repotting:

Repot every year or every other year into fresh potting mix. Divide at repotting time.

Varieties:

There are many varieties of Calathea:

• C. makoyana. Features purplish coloring on the undersides of leaves, with white and green on top. Known as the peacock plant.
• C. zebrina. The zebra plant has green markings on the leaf top and purple leaf undersides.
• C. crocata. Plain leaves, but displays of upright oragen-red flowers.
• C. ornata. Reddish marking on leaf tops with purple undersides.

Grower's Tips:

Calathea have a reputation as a greenhouse plant, and it's easy to see why. They re highly sensitive to cold, drafts, and sudden temperature fluctuations. They grow best in warm, humid and bright stable conditions, but not direct sunlight. Calathea thrive in bottle gardens and terrariums due to their high humidity. Plants grown in arid conditions are frequently attacked by mites and scale.

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How to Grow Caladium

 It's a pity caladium are rarely thought of as houseplants. These plants are almost unparalleled for their foliage. They have large, arrow-shaped and paper-thin leaves that come in a striking array of colors and patterns. A mass of caladium is an explosion of whites, greens, reds and pinks ... mottled, veined and striped. But these plants have a few drawbacks. They are tuberous plants that only grow foliage from spring to autumn, they require very high humidity, and they have absolutely no cold tolerance. Nevertheless, as far as unusual indoor plants go, these are sure to raise a few admiring eyebrows.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Indirect light or moderate shade indoors. The narrower the leaves, the greater the sun it can withstand.
Water: When leaves appear, keep evenly moist. Never allow to dry out and keep humidity as high as practical.
Temperature: The warmer the better. Aim for 70º if possible—tubers begin to grow around 70ºF.
Soil: Rich, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize weekly during the growing season with liquid or use slow-release pellets.

Propagation:

Mature tubers can be divided; make sure that each new tuber section has at least one growing site.

Repotting:

Indoors or out, caladium are a seasonal plant, with foliage in the summer and a rest period in the autumn or winter. Their rest period isn't determined by temperature or light cycle, but by how long the plant has been growing. After the leaves begin to die back in the fall, either keep the tubers in the same pot (keeping it dry) or remove, clean and put into sawdust or sand to store. Store tubers above 55ºF to minimize loss of healthy tubers. Plant them out again when the next growing season begins.

Varieties:

There are literally too many cultivars to keep track of—caladium cultivars are green, red, pink, white, even orange. In many cases, cultivars are sold without names. Almost all cultivars are descended from the C. bicolor, which is native to South America. Some books list these plants as C. hortulanum. Personally, I buy caladiums for their foliage and don't worry too much about the cultivar.

Grower's Tips:

Caladiums are a seasonal plant even in the tropics, where gardeners plant them in the spring and summer months when they'll thrive in the heat and wet. In the home situation, they'll do best with lots of heat, bright but indirect light, and lots of humidity. But even under the best conditions, caladiums will only last a few months before their leaves start to die back and the plant goes dormant again. This is OK—they're supposed to do that. Use masses of them as striking summer accents and conversation pieces. When they die back, save the tubers in a bag and replant next year for another show.

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Growing Brassavola Orchids

I will admit that I'm biased: I'm a Brassavola enthusiast. For one thing—and perhaps the most important thing—B. nodosa possesses my favorite fragrance in the world. You can have your roses and gardenias, your citrus flowers and even your night-blooming jasmine. Give me the haunting scent of a B. nodosa any night. Perhaps even more bewitching, these pure white, ghostly flowers only give up their scent at night, as if it was a secret pleasure they are afraid to flaunt during the day. And that, of course, is not where their virtues end. The Brassavola orchids are frequent bloomers, with multiple flushes of flowers every year. In some cases, they seem to bloom year-round, and what their flowers give away in size (they're relatively small compared to the more showy Cattleya and Phalaenopsis), they make up for in sheer quantity. Finally, these are not especially challenging orchids to grow—if you can grow any of the epiphytic orchids with success, you can grow these.

Taxonomy and Structure:

Brassavola orchids belong to the Laeliinae subtribe. There are about 17 species of Brassavola; they are native to the American tropics. The standard and most common Brassavola is the Brassavola nodosa, which grows readily in baskets, mounted, or in containers with orchid mix. Brassavola orchids have long, thin tubular leaves that can reach up to a foot in length and sometimes appear unrolled or flattened. Brassavola orchids and their hybrids have much smaller pseudobulbs than other epiphytic orchids, so the leaves often appear to arise directly from the rhizome without an thick pseudobulb. The typical Brassavola flower features an enlarged, scoop-like lip with petals and sepals that have narrowed into spear-like petals. Brassavola nodosa flowers are white to attract moth pollinators, but the plant has been extensively hybridized to create flowers in a multitude of colors.

Light:

Brassavola orchids typically light fairly strong, bright light, even with some direct sunlight. A healthy Brassavola has mottled leaves, with slight reddish marks on the leaves. Leaves that are deep green typically signify a plant that isn't getting enough light, so the plant should be moved to a brighter location. Brassavola prefer 2,500 to 4,000 fc light intensity. A south-facing window is frequently a perfect home.

Water:

The tubular leaves on Brassavola are designed to reduce water transpiration, making them more drought tolerant than many other orchids. As a result, the plants need less humidity and less frequent water than many other epiphytic orchids. As with all orchids, the frequency of watering depends on your growing culture. Mounted Brassavola orchids can be watered several times a week during the growing cycle, while potted Brassavola orchids should be watered thoroughly weekly. Drooping or wrinkled leaves signal water stress and you should water the plant as soon as possible.

Fertilizer:

Brassavola orchids send out several flushes of leaves throughout the year and healthy plants are year-round bloomers. As a result, the plant should be fed throughout the year with a weak fertilizer solution (1/4 strength weekly). Many growers fashion "fertilizer balls" from nylon hose and controlled-release pellets, then tie the ball of pellets over the plant, thus providing a small dose of fertilizer every time the plant is watered. Nylon fertilizer balls will last a few months.

Temperature:

Brassavola prefer intermediate to warm temperatures and will bloom better on the warmer end of the scale. Nothing smells as wonderful as a blooming Brassavola on a summer's night.

Blooming:

Brassavola orchids are moth-pollinated, so the flowers on the Brassavola nodosa are a pale white to attract pollinators. Brassavola orchids are year-round bloomers with multiple flowers and flower spikes per flush. It's not uncommon to see a Brassavola so covered with flowers it looks like a flower ball. Provide adequate light and warmth and you will be rewarded with several full blooms throughout the year. Brassavola are related to Cattleya and Rhyncholaelia, so they have been extensively hybridized to create many new species, including the lovely and common Brassolaeliocattleya orchids or BLC. A personal favorite of mine is the Stellamizutaara Kelly 'Lea,' a complex hybrid arising from a cross between the Brassavola nodosa and the Cattleytonia 'Keith Roth'.

Potting and Media:

Brassavola adapt well to mounted culture and will thrive mounted on fern plaques or in mounted baskets. Basket-grown Brassavola can quickly outgrow their original basket and form a specimen plant that completely covers the original container. Don't bother repotting or remounting larger Brassavola, but feel free to take divisions and rapidly multiply your plant stock. If you're potting them in containers, use a standard fast-draining orchid mix, such as those composed of expanded clay pellets, charcoal and pine bark chips.

Grower's Tips:

Brassavola are generally a beginner's level orchid in terms of their difficulty to grow. This is mainly because they are more drought tolerant than many species and can handle more neglect than fussier species (vandas, I'm looking at you). Unfortunately, for such an easy orchid with so many great attributes, they are woefully under-represented in the mainstream orchid trade. Look for Brassavola orchids at specialty greenhouses, orchid shows or consider purchasing them online. Brassavola are fast-growing orchids and will quickly begin to yield divisions to increase your collection or make your orchid-loving friends very happy.

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How to Grow Bougainvillea as Houseplants

Bougainvillea are not typical houseplants—in their natural form, they are sprawling climbers and shrubs with formidable thorns. They are suited to a somewhat arid, subtropical to tropical climate. Nevertheless, these plants possess something many indoor gardeners prize: color. During blooming season, their insignificant flowers are surrounded by bracts of blazing color in bright purples, pinks, oranges, and other hues. As an added bonus, they are easily trimmed and trained and, with an experienced hand, can make a striking container plant for indoors.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Full sun. Many growers move bougainvillea outside during the summer months.
Water: Keep evenly moist during summer and nearly dry in winter. They bloom better with drier winter conditions.
Temperature: Relatively hardy. They are able to withstand tropical high temperatures and cold down to the mid-40s.
Soil: Well-drained potting mix with plenty of perlite.
Fertilizer: Feed in summer with weak liquid fertilizer weekly, or use controlled-release fertilizer.

Propagation:

Use branch cuttings with a rooting hormone in the spring, with bottom heat provided. Bougainvillea are not easy to propagate by most home gardeners, so several attempts may be necessary.

Repotting:

Bougainvillea are rapidly growing, and in suitable outdoor environments, will quickly grow into small trees or large clumping shrubs up to 15 feet high. In containers, the idea is to control this growth by yearly repotting and root pruning in the spring. Once the plant is larger, repot every two years.

Varieties:

The basic bougainvillea is B. glabra. However, this plant has been extensively hybridized, so most bougainvilleas seen in garden centers are hybrids. Choose your bougainvillea based on its bract color and shape. All care requirements are similar.

Grower's Tips:

You will likely encounter one of two problems with your bougainvillea: lack of blooms, or too-rapid growth. If the plant is not blooming, cut back on watering for a few weeks. They naturally bloom in the spring and seem to bloom harder in drier years. Bougainvillea need to be trimmed to maintain their shape. However, be aware that they flower along their long branches, so aggressive pruning of new growth will reduce their color. The best approach is to prune in the autumn, after the growing season is complete, so it will bloom from next season’s

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Growing Nephrolepis Ferns

 The Boston fern is only most well-known of the nephrolepis ferns, but all of them share certain desirable traits. They are relatively tough ferns, with a higher tolerance for light than other species. And they are typically attractive, with long, graceful fronds bedecked with tiny leaves. As far as ferns go, these are also more tolerant of dry conditions and easy to propagate. Finally, they can be used in any number of situations, including pedestals, hanging baskets, groupings, or lush specimen plants on the right windowsill.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright, indirect light. Some varieties of nephrolepis can be trained to handle almost full sun, but most prefer filtered, dappled light.
Water: Keep the root ball moist at all times. Mist frequently, depending on the ambient humidity.
Temperature: These ferns can survive the occassional blast of cold, down to 50ºF or even slightly colder for a few hours. However, they really thrive between 60ºF and 75ºF.
Soil: A loamy, rich, organic mixture.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, feed with liquid or slow-release pellets

Propagation:

These are very easy plants to propagate: simply divide the plant while repotting in the spring. Even very small divisions will root if care is taken with them (meaning plenty of warmth and humidity). Make sure each division has a section of healthy roots. Ferns can also be propagated by spore, but this is somewhat more difficult.

Repotting:

In the spring, repot into fresh compost, even if it's not necessary to move up in pot sizes. Divide plants at this time and multiply your collection.

Varieties:

There are actually two species of nephrolepis found in cultivation: N. cordifolia and N. exaltata. N. cordifolia features erect fronds up to two feet long. N. exaltata is the more common. Varieties include:

• N. exaltata. Known as the sword fern, this plant has stiff, upright fronds up to three feet.
• N. exaltata bostoniensis. This cultivar was discovered in 1894 and has graceful, drooping fronds.
• N. exaltata bostoniensis varietals. There are many varieties of this popular fern, featuring frilly, ruffled or interesting fronds. Some of the most popular varieties include 'Whitmanii,' or lace fern, and the 'Rooseveltii.'

Grower's Tips:

Nephrolepis ferns appreciate a little TLC. They like to be kept in warm, humid conditions, and don't appreciate being blasted by air from outlets or vents. Remove dead fronds and occasionally rotate the plant to keep it growing evenly. During the winter, when the plant isn't growing, you can reduce watering, but your fern should never be allowed to completely dry out.

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Growing Asplenium Nidus Ferns

 Bird's nest ferns are actually one of two asplenium species found in cultivation. The other, often called the spleenwort or mother fern (A. bulbiferum) is much harder to grow and looks nothing like its cousin. These ferns are naturally epiphytic, and in their rainforest homes, can be found growing high in the crooks of trees. They grow in a series of erect, spoon-shaped and apple-colored fronds that rise from a central rosette. Healthy plants can have fronds up to three feet, but this is rare in most indoor situations. These are beautiful plants, but will require a bit of babying to reach their fullest potential.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Filtered light to light shade. Don't expose to direct sun, other than very early morning sun.
Water: These are true jungle plants—keep their compost moist and provide the highest humidity possible.
Temperature: They will begin to suffer below about 55ºF for prolonged periods. Best kept between 70ºF and 80ºF, with high humidity. A warming pad will often help dormant plants.
Soil: Loose, rich organic compost.
Fertilizer: During growing season, fertilizer weekly or biweekly with weak liquid fertilizer. Don't put fertilizer pellets in the central cup.

Propagation:

These are not easy to propagate and cannot be divided, as with some other fern species. They are usually raised from spore or tissue culture, meaning propagation is usually beyond the reach of most home growers.

Repotting:

Bird's nest ferns prefer to be slightly underpotted. As naturally epiphytic plants, they are used to growing in a minimum of organic material, and mature plants will elongate above the soil level as the fern grows and sheds lower leaves. The problem, of course, is that large ferns will easily tip over their smaller pots. When repotting every other year, use the next pot size up and refresh the compost.

Varieties:

The basic bird's nest fern is Asplenium nidus. Another Asplenium species (A. bulbiferum) is sometimes available, but this is a much more difficult fern to grow indoors. Some varietals of A. nidus have been developed, usually with crinkled or frilly leaf margins.

Grower's Tips:

Bird's nest ferns are beautiful, and many conservatories and greenhouses boast impressively large specimens. They are a natural with orchids, bromeliads and other rainforest plants. The key to a healthy bird's nest fern is providing enough warmth and moisture. Given these two conditions, the ferns can withstand higher light levels. A shower ledge by a window is a good place for a healthy bird's nest fern.

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How to Grow Strelitzia

Cousin to the banana, the bird of paradise is one of the best known of all the tropical flowers. Who hasn't walked into a swanky hotel or event and seen magnificent table centerpieces built about these remarkable flowers? Surprisingly, birds are easier to grow than many tropical plants. The plant is a vigorous, rapidly growing indoor plant. Birds can be moved outside in the summer, and in warmer climes, will thrive for half the year outside. They typically flower in the late winter or early spring, but under optimal conditions, will flower at various times.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright light, even including some direct sunlight, to bloom well. However, only habituated plants can handle direct, midday summer sun.
Water: Keep soil continuously moist throughout the year. High humidity is preferred.
Temperature: Above 60ºF is preferred in the winter. This is not a cold-tolerant plant.
Soil: Rich, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed in spring with slow-release pellets or weekly during growing season with liquid fertilizer.

Propagation:

By division of underground rhizome during repotting. Can be grown from seed, but division is so easy, why bother?

Repotting:

These are rapid-growing plants that need to reach a certain size before they'll bloom. Repot every spring into a larger pot and make sure to give it room to get big.

Varieties:

There are four strelitzia species, but only one is grown as an indoor plant: S. reginae. This plant grows with upright leaves emerging directly from the soil—there is no trunk. The large leaves range between 12 and 18 inches long and, if exposed to windy conditions or being brushed in a busy hallway, will shred.

Grower's Tips:

S. reginae is a beautiful plant and can be very successfully grown inside. The biggest drawback is typically its size (they grow up to 5 feet) and the fact that plants need 3 to 5 years before they will flower. They work well in massed plantings or as specimen plants, and their flowers will rise above the foliage for an impressive display. The trick to successful growth is providing lots of bright light (with some gentle direct sun), water, warmth and food.

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Introduction to Growing Begonias

 Begonias are among the most popular of cultivated plants, indoors or outdoors. These lovely plants are grown for both their leaf forms and their blooms, depending on the type of begonia. In some areas of the world, the wax begonia is easily the most popular bedding plant, while serious plant collectors still go to great lengths to hunt down beautiful foliage begonias.

An Introduction to Begonias

According to the American Begonia Society, the Begonia genus of plants includes about 1,500 named species and several thousand hybrids. From a cultivation point of view, begonias have all the ingredients for successful hybridization-they cross readily, they have striking variability in the genus, and their ranks include everything from durable landscape plants to delicate specimens.

Botanically speaking, begonias are terrestrial understory herbs native to tropical regions around the world, including Central and South America, Asia, and Africa. Today, most begonias in cultivation are hybrids, so they cannot be grown from seeds. Fortunately, however, they readily reproduce from leaf cuttings or rhizome division, so it's easy to rapidly increase your begonia collection.

Because of the wide variety of begonia types, enthusiasts divide the genus into different types to help keep them straight. Brad Thompson, a begonia expert, offers the following divisions for begonias:

• Cane type. These grow from straight, sometimes brittle stems, and are prized for both their blooms and their foliage. The very popular and beautiful angel wing and dragon wing begonias are cane type begonias. These hybrids generally feature clusters of pendant flowers that appear throughout the year.
• Shrub type. Shrub begonias grow in mounding piles from multiple stems. They range in size from small to huge plants that would dwarf a full-grown man. These are not as common as cane type begonias.
• Rhizomatous. Rhizomatous begonias grow from thick underground rhizomes. These types of begonias are popular for their beautiful leaf shapes and colors, with leaves that can attain massive size under the right conditions. These are very popular plants and include some of the most commonly cultivated indoor begonias.
• Semperflorens. These are the common wax begonias, so called because of the waxy appearance of their leaves. In temperate areas, these are grown as annuals, but they are perennial shrubs in warmer areas. Wax begonias have been bred with pink, white and red flowers, either in single or double blooms. Although they are most commonly grown outdoors, they can be grown indoors.
• Tuberous. Tuberous begonias are primarily grown for their flowers, which are often show-worth. They have a short dormant period in the fall and winter. In terms of plant structure, tuberous begonias include trailing types and upright plants.
• Trailing. Trailing begonias are great for hanging baskets. They feature pendant growth with beautiful displays of flowers, sometimes year-round. Most pendant begonias have bright-green leaves.
• Rex. Rex begonias are actually a type of rhizomatous begonias, but they deserve special mention for their showy and beautiful leaves. Rex begonias offer a truly bewildering array of leaf shapes and colors, including greens, red, purple, silver, white, and many others. These types of begonias have insignificant flowers, but the leaves more than make up for their lack of interesting blooms.

Knowing the type of begonia growing is essential for success. In general, however, a few broad rules can be drawn about begonias: they cannot tolerate freezing temperatures, they prefer regular and even moisture but dislike being wet, and many of them do not thrive in strong sunlight. But even these are only the broadest of rules. The rest of this series of articles will delve more deeply into the world of begonias and hopefully offer some tips and hints on how to identify and keep your begonias thriving.

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Growing Bananas Indoors

Bananas are without a doubt one of the most economically important plants in the world, so it makes sense that most people don't often think of growing bananas indoors. That's a shame, though. Because of the way bananas grow, you can create a stunning, large and very tropical summer container display using bananas. Providing you give it enough water and fertilizer, the banana plant will grow extremely fast, filling in your bright corner or window in no time at all and providing a wonderful conversation piece. There is one drawback, however. Don’t expect to actually harvest any bananas. Unless you live in the tropics or have a large greenhouse, your plant won't have time to flower and develop fruit. Instead, focus on growing bananas for their beautiful and signature foliage.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bananas grow in full sun or dappled shade.
Water: During the growth season, bananas are prolific water hogs. Water the plant generously, and as it grows, expect it to consume more water. You may find yourself watering a large banana plant daily.
Temperature: On the warm side (up to 85˚F). If you keep the plant during winter, try to keep the temperature as warm as possible, with high ambient humidity.
Soil: A loose, well drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize abundantly. Bananas are notoriously heavy feeders, so provide a steady supply of nutrients, in whatever form you're using.

Propagation:

Bananas are very easy to propagate because of their unique growth habit. The actual banana "trunk" is really a large pseudobulb composed of old leaves that grows from an underground rhizome. In nature, each stem grows to maturity, flowers and fruits, and then dies back. Meanwhile, the underground rhizome is continuously sending up new stems to keep the plant active. On banana plantations, growers usually cut back extra stems as they emerge so each rhizome will have only three trunks at any given time: one immature trunk, one flowering trunk, and one fruiting. This ensures a steady supply of bananas. Thus, propagating bananas is a simple matter of digging up and dividing new stems as they emerge, making sure to include a bit of the rhizome and roots. However, it's unlikely your plant will live long enough indoors to begin sending up shoots (which is usually at least a year or more), so it's likely you'll discard your plant after one season.

Repotting:

A truly mature banana plant cannot be properly contained in a single container because, over time, the plant will send up numerous shoots and outgrow whatever container you're using. If, however, you live in a warm region and want to keep your banana beyond a single season, follow these tips for repotting. First, remove all suckers as they emerge and pot into smaller containers (1 gal. is perfect for small shoots), leaving only the main trunk. Then repot the main trunk in the spring into a larger container. Remember, however, that each banana trunk is designed to only live for a few years at most and will die after flowering. So don't expect to grow a long-lived "banana tree" in your house.

Varieties:

There are about 40 species of bananas in the wild, but untold hybrids have been created, including eating bananas like the Cavendish, Ice Cream, and Grand Nain. I'd recommend choosing your banana cultivar based on its leaves since you won't be growing for fruit. The red-leaved bananas (sometimes called 'Bloodleaf') are beautiful container plants with variegated red and green leaves. Bananas are closely associated with the bird of paradise and for a long time, the plants were placed in the same family.

Grower's Tips:

A healthy banana plant will have upright, very tropical leaves that unfurl from the central growing point. These are among the fastest growing plants in cultivation today, and a healthy banana plant will easily grow an inch a week or more, providing it has access to enough water, nutrients, and warmth. Bananas will often remerge from the rhizomes, so when the weather begins to cool, cut your indoor banana off at the soil level (their trunks are soft and easy to cut) and hopefully new shoots will emerge for next season. Indoor bananas are wonderful when used in a large container collection and provide the very essence of the tropics.

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Australian Tree Fern

Calling an Australian tree fern a houseplant is a bit like calling a leopard a housecat—in their native habitats, these plants grow to 40 feet or more, easily too large for most indoor growing situations except for the largest of greenhouses. But they deserve inclusion because of their sheer beauty. These majestic ferns have curled fronds that emerge from the central leaf crown; individual fronds can reach four or five feet. A well-grown tree fern is a fast-growing plant, and will likely outgrow its space within a few years.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Depends on heat and temperature, but they can handle full sun in temperate zones. They prefer partial shade however.
Water: Keep evenly moist all year, with very high humidity.
Temperature: They thrive between 65ºF and 80ºF.
Soil: Loose, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: During growing season, feed with controlled-release fertilizer or biweekly with weak liquid fertilizer. Larger specimens are heavy feeders.

Propagation:

By spores. Propagation is typically left to growers.

Repotting:

Repot annually into larger pots with fresh, free-draining potting soil. When the plant reaches the maximum size allowed by the growing space, stop repotting to slow growth. Eventually, it will likely outgrow both the pot and the room.

Varieties:

The plant sold as an Australian tree fern is typically a C. cooperi. There are, however, about 1,000 different kinds of tree ferns, all found in tropical or subtropical settings. The New Zealand or Tasmanian tree fern is closely related, but is actually a Dicksonia antarctica. This plant tends to have a narrower crown than the Australian tree fern, but similar growth requirements.

Grower's Tips:

Tree ferns thrive in mid-elevation tropical environments, where they can sometimes be found growing in great, prehistoric forests swathed in tepid mist. The key to growing a healthy tree fern is to provide ample humidity and consistency, avoiding extremes of heat, cold, and sunlight. Tree ferns don’t appreciate rapid changes in humidity or temperature, which will result in browning leaves. Beware of the tiny hairs on the trunks of Cyathea, as they can be irritating.

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How to Grow Asparagus Ferns

The asparagus fern isn’t exactly a common houseplant, but it’s attractive with feathery, light foliage and can be successfully grown indoors. In warmer regions, the fern can be easily adapted to outdoor culture, where it sometimes grows like a creeper and can even become invasive. Indoors, the key to an attractive asparagus fern is to keep the plant bushy and dense so its lace-like foliage forms an attractive mound.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Dappled shade is ideal, although it can be acclimated to more light.
Water: Keep it evenly moist; it prefers humidity during the growing season.
Temperature: Warm, preferring up to 70ºF. Don’t go below 55ºF for long.
Soil: Use loose, well-drained potting soil.
Fertilizer: During growing period, use weak liquid fertilizer weekly.

Propagation:

By division of clumps during repotting. Make sure to take multiple underground “bulbs” when dividing.

Repotting:

Like many ferns, this fern doesn’t mind being slightly pot-bound and can go up to two years before repotting. Divide at repotting time and keep in the same size pot to retain its tight growth habit.

Varieties:

The most popular asparagus fern is the A. densiflorus ‘Sprengeri’, or Sprengeri’s asparagus fern. There are, however, a few other varieties sometimes seen in cultivation, including A. asparagoides, which has ovoid pseudo-leaves, and A. setaceus, which has very fine needles.

Grower's Tips:

Although these plants thrive in humidity, they are remarkably drought tolerant for a fern and a healthy plant will typically quickly recover from cold damage or drought damage. It’s “leaves” are actually tiny branchlets called cladophylls that are flat and look like leaves. Mature plants become woody and can develop sharp spines on the branches, so watch out while you’re trimming older specimens. If you have a shady porch outside or a greenhouse, they love to be moved outside over the summer and will likely respond with abundant growth.

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Growing Ascocentrum and Ascocenda Orchids

 The Ascocentrum genus is a relatively small group of about 10 species that hails from the Asian tropics—yet from a collector's point of view, these are extremely important plants. Ascocentrum plants are closely related to Vandas and easily hybridize with these orchids. The resulting Ascocentrum x Vanda cross is known as Ascocenda, or Ascda. The Ascocenda plants offer the very best of both their parents: they are compact monopodial plants that can easily be grown indoors; they have the same outrageously awesome growth habit; and they boast the jewel-like flowers of the Vandas. If you have any interest in growing hanging monopodial orchids, my advice is to start with an Ascocenda. Once you've mastered these plants, you can move up to the much larger Vanda plants.

Taxonomy and Structure:

Ascocentrum are in the Vandeae tribe and Sarcanthinae subtribe of orchids. They are close related to Vandas and Renantheras and easily hybridize with these plants. Ascocentrum are monopodial orchids, like Phalaenopsis, meaning they lack pseudobulbs and grow from a single stem, with their roots emerging from the bottom of the growing stem. Ascocentrum have strap-like leaves that emerge alternating left and right. Their roots emerge from the bottom of the stem, but sometimes roots will emerge from between leaves and wander into the open air. Over time, older plants will branch, sending out alternate stems, and gradually increasing the plant's overall size. Propagation by division is possible by removing side stems, providing they have at least two healthy roots established.

Light:

Like Vandas, Ascocentrum thrive in strong, bright light. They can be acclimated to direct sunlight, and in areas where they are grown outside, can sometimes be seen in nearly full morning sunlight. Plants that are receiving enough light have light green leaves with red mottling on the leaves. Leaves that are dark green or a lack of flowering typically indicate inadequate light. In northern latitudes, the winter is particularly challenging when it comes to light. Growers in these areas might need to supplement with an HID light. In the summer, your Ascocentrum might appreciate being hung in a tree outside.

Water:

As with all orchids, the amount and frequency of watering depends on the growing habit. Ascocentrum orchids can be grown in pots, in a very fast-draining orchid mixture, or they are particularly well suited to basket culture. Many growers who have greenhouses grow Vandaceous orchids in open slatted baskets with no growing medium and the roots hanging free in the open air. In general, Ascocentrum have fairly high water requirements. Hanging plants should be watered or misted daily. To correctly water a hanging Ascocentrum, give it a good soaking, then let it dry for two or three minutes and water it again. The roots should turn green or silvery as the plant absorbs water. Providing adequate humidity is also important: a minimum of 60% is necessary for healthy growth, but more is better. There is no upper tolerance—these orchids are well suited to 90% humidity, providing there is a strong airflow. A healthy plant should remain cloaked with leaves all the way to the bottom of the stem. If the plant starts dropping leaves, the most likely culprit is lack of water or improper feeding.

Fertilizer:

Ascocentrum are heavy feeders. Fertilize weekly with a 1/2 strength orchid fertilizer. Plants that are properly fertilized will retain their leaves and bloom much more vigorously.

Temperature:

Ascocentrum are warm-house orchids that prefer temperatures above about 65˚F. They can tolerate lower temperatures, but a prolonged exposure to colder temperatures will have a profound effect on the plant's growth and flowering. Exposure to any temperatures below 50˚F can cause delayed flowering for up to a year.

Blooming:

The plants typically flower in the late winter or early spring, although my Ascocenda hybrids have been known to throw flower spikes throughout the year. The plants flower from an upright inflorescence that is covered with small, perfectly shaped flowers. Ascocendas follow this same pattern: an upright inflorescence that looks like a cone of flowers. True Ascocentrum flowers are often red, scarlet or deep orange, depending on the species.

Potting and Media:

Ascocentrum and the closely related Asocendas really do best as mounted plants. Most growers prefer growing them in open slatted baskets, wiring the plants into place until the roots have had a chance to work their way through the basket and firmly hold the plant in place. As they plants grow, they sometimes need additional support to prevent tipping over; this can be provided by wiring the main stem loosely to the basket support. Plants grown in this way will eventually develop a hanging curtain of white roots. People who are unfamiliar with orchids are always enchanted by the sight of a beautiful orchid seemingly growing in mid-air (not knowing, of course, that you water it daily!). Baskets can be made from cedar or plastic. You can also grow these plants in containers, but it is absolutely essential that you use a very fast draining mix and allow the plants to completely dry between watering. Despite their extremely high water requirements, dampness is the enemy of these beautiful plants. The roots must be allowed to completely dry out.

Grower's Tips:

Ascocentrum and indeed all Vandaceous orchids are not really beginniner's plant. They require more maintanence than your average Phalaenopsis, including sometimes daily watering and rather more extreme growing conditions (high humidity, high temperatures, very bright light). Additionally, I've found that growing them well requires some patience in the beginning—there is a natural balance between watering, humidity, temperature, air flow, and light that is optimal. It's hard to say exactly what this is, because every growing situation differs a little bit. To some degree, it's just a matter of feeling it out, learning to recognize this sweet spot by instinct as much as anything else. But don't let me discourage you: there's a reason this plants win so many awards, a reason that people literally build additions onto their homes to keep Vandaceous orchids. They are exotic and beautiful and tempermental, and they reward your efforts with sublime displays of blooms.

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How to Grow Syngonium alias Arrowhead

 The arrowhead vine makes a pretty trailing or climbing vine that tends to aggressive growth under the right conditions. Sometimes mislabeled as Nephthytis, the arrowhead vine is a tropical climber in the Arum (or aroid) family. Many varieties have variegated leaves to one degree or another, and like many aroids, the plants leaf structure changes as it matures, going from a simple arrow shape to a deeply lobed or divided mature leaf.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright light but no direct sun. Variegated types can handle more direct sun, while deeper green varieties can handle partial shade.
Water: Spray frequently to maintain high humidity. Keep soil continuously moist throughout spring and summer, and reduce watering in the winter, but don't let it dry out.
Temperature: Prefers warm and humid conditions. Keep above 60ºF if possible.
Soil: Rich, well-drained potting mix.
Fertilizer: Feed regularly with liquid fertilizer throughout growing season.

Propagation:

Syngonium root readily from stem cuttings and can easily be propagated in the spring or summer months. If your plant has aerial roots along the stem, take a section of stem with attached roots to increase your odds of success.

Repotting:

Syngonium are aggressive, rapid-growing vines, so the frequency of repotting depends somewhat on how big you want the vine to get. Repot yearly for a larger vine. Otherwise, refresh potting media every spring and repot every other year.

Varieties:

There are more than 30 species of Syngonium vines native to tropical America. The one most commonly seen in cultivation, however, is S. podophyllum and its many varieties. Breeders have created plants with striking variegation along leaf veins. Juvenile leaves are simply arrows, while mature leaves can be up to a foot long and have five or more lobes. Variegated plants tend to lose their variegation as they age.

Grower's Tips:

These plants will thrive under the same conditions as the related philodendron. They are climbers in the wild and will eventually grow from shade into full sun in the canopy, with leaves maturing and gaining size as the plant gains altitude. In the home, these are often used as trailing plants or can be trained up a pole or moss stick. They are perfect for a sunroom or greenhouse conservatory where ample heat, light and humidity will encourage their tropical nature.

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How to Grow Anthurium Plants

The are two groups of anthurium grown in greenhouses: flowering varieties and those with magnificent foliage. The only ones you're likely to see in the garden center are the flowering varieties with their multicolored spathes and red or yellow tail-like flower spikes. But if you are intrepid, you might come across a few of the large-leaved, deeply veined foliage types. Be warned: neither type of anthurium is particularly well-suited for most houses. Native to tropical rainforests throughout Central and South America, many anthuriums are climbers and all need very high humdity and warmth to thrive.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright, indirect light. Do not expose to direct sunlight, except in the winter or plants that have been carefully acclimated.
Water: Keep compost moist at all times, but not drenched. Foliage anthurium throw off aerial roots that appreciate misting and can be pushed into the soil.
Temperature: They suffer below 60ºF. The foliage types prefer it even warmer.
Soil: Rich, loose potting media. Push exposed roots into the soil.
Fertilizer: Use liquid fertilizer throughout the growing period or pellets in the spring.

Propagation:

Divide during repotting, or take cuttings from the tip or stem. Older foliage plants might overgrow the top of their pots with exposed aerial roots. These can be cut off at the soil level and potted into new pots. Leaves will emerge from the old stem.

Repotting:

Repot annually as needed. They don't suffer from being slightly underpotted, however, so only repot if necessary. When repotting, use high-quality potting soil.

Varieties:

The anthuriums are collector's plants, and many of the most magnificent varieties are rare outside of greenhouses and botanical gardens. Varieties include:

• A. andreanum. Heart-shaped leaves up to 1 ft., with flowers available in red, white, pink and variegated. Distinguished by a straight flower spike.
• A. scherzerianum. The most forgiving of anthuriums, it features a curling orange flower spike. Leaves are arrow shaped.
• A. crystallinum. Deep green, velvety leaves with pronounced white ribs. Leaves up to 2 ft. across.
• A. faustinomirandae. A monster with cardboard-stiff leaves up to 5 ft. long. A greenhouse plant.

Grower's Tips:

All anthuriums prefer plenty of warmth, regular moisture and ample fertilizer. The easiest to grow are the A. scherzerianum and A. andreanum. These plants have been extensively hybridized and are relatively common in garden centers. Flowering anthuriums will flower any time of the year, providing they are healthy. Foliage anthuriums are mostly found at speciality greenhouses or through online nurseries. To grow them best, approximate conditions found in tropical zones, and if necessary, provide a climbing support for foliage varieties.

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Alocasia amazonica

 This popular elephant's ear (Alocasia amazonica) is a striking and beautiful houseplant, with deep green leaves accentuated by whitish or light green leaf veins. The leaves are roughly serrated, and in some cases, the leaf color appears as an almost purple green. They are fleshy, truly tropical plants that grow from underground corms.

Growing Conditions:

Light: Bright, indirect light. They can survive in 80 percent shade, but prefer about 60 percent shade. Do not expose to strong, direct sunlight.
Water: Like most alocasias, the Amazon elephant's ear likes wet feet. Keep the potting media moist at all times.
Temperature: This is a tropical plant that will go dormant or die if exposed to cold. Do not let temperature remain under 50º Fahrenheit. If the plant does go dormant, you may be able to dig up the corm and save it until warmer conditions are possible.
Soil: These plants like a fast-draining, well-aerated potting soil.

Propagation:

Amazon elephant's ears are best propagated by division during repotting. In a very healthy specimen with multiple stems, corms can be dug up from the existing pot and repotted into smaller pots.

Repotting:

A well-grown plant may need yearly repotting. Keep in mind, however, that these plants like to be slightly underpotted for best foliage development.

Grower's Tips:

These are excellent houseplants. Amazon elephant ears are striking, and their dramatic two-tone leaf coloration is unique. However, they are truly tropical plants, which means they appreciate lots of warmth, humidity and water. A large specimen may grow up to 3 feet, but most are smaller. Cut away dead and dying leaves for the best presentation, and keep an eye out for mites.

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Growing Hippeastrum Amaryllis Bulbs

The popular amaryllis seen in grocery stores and blooming around Christmas is most likely a Hippeastrum. There is a true amaryllis (the A. belladonna), but it's rarely seen in cultivation. Amaryllis is a indoor bulb that grows long, strappy leaves and tall heads of 2–4 lush, colorful flowers. Red and red-and-white combinations are perennial favorites, but they also come in salmon, white and yellow. By staggering their growth periods, or planting many at once in the fall, you can have beautiful indoor flower displays throughout most of the winter. Move them outside during the summer for the foliage phase.

Growing Conditions:

Light: After the bulb sprouts, a tall, hollow flower stalk will emerge. Provide bright light, but not direct sun.
Water: When the flower stalk is growing, gradually increase water. Do not soak bulb. After the flower is done, cut the stalk off and move the plant outside for the summer for the foliage growth. Water freely at this point.
Temperature: In the winter, keep above 60ºF. In the summer, move outside, but not in full sunlight.
Soil: Rich, well-drained potting soil.
Fertilizer: As the flower stalk grows, use liquid fertilizer. In the beginning of the summer, use slow-release pellet fertilizer.

Propagation:

Older bulbs will produce bulb offsets that can be cut off and potted up individually.

Repotting:

You shouldn't have to repot an amaryllis bulb, except to perhaps change the soil every year or so. To do this, gently shake the bulb free of its soil when in its dormant stage and repot into new soil in the same container. When planting the bulb, make sure the top third or half of the bulb is exposed to prevent rot.

Grower's Tips:

Amaryllis grow in two phases: a flowering phase in the winter, followed by a foliage phase in the summer. Near the end of the summer, as the leaves die, gradually allow the bulb to dry out, then move it back indoors when the weather begins to consistently reach into the mid-50s. Rest the bulb in a cool, dark spot without water for a month or two. In late fall, begin watering gradually and a new flower stalk will emerge. You can time the flower cycle based on when you resume watering.

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